Nancy Maffia, Author at 1800Flowers Petal Talk

How to Care for Mums

As days grow shorter and temperatures drop, and many types of flowers begin to fade, chrysanthemums can bring a bright burst of warm color to a fall garden.

Around 40 species of chrysanthemums — commonly referred to as “mums” — exist in the wild. These herbaceous perennials or subshrubs, native to east Asia and northeastern Europe, are members of the daisy family and usually grow one to three feet tall. They have been cultivated and hybridized in China since the 15^th century B.C., and are culturally important all over Asia.

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Chrysanthemums were introduced to the Western world in the 17^th century. Since then, thousands of varieties have been hybridized in Europe and the United States. The name chrysanthemum means “golden flower” in Greek and is also the scientific name of the plant. Followers of feng shui consider these plants a source of laughter and joy.

Here’s a guide to how to care for mums, including tips on buying the right kind and growing your own.

Buying guide

Chrysanthemums put on a show from late summer until frost. They offer a wide range of flower shapes, sizes, and colors for in-ground planting, containers, or hanging pots. When choosing which chrysanthemums to buy, keep the following points in mind.

how to care for mums with woman holding fall mums

Florist mums vs. hardy mums

Attractive florist chrysanthemums — those usually sold in florist shops or indoors at garden centers or grocery stores — are not hardy and are best used in containers or as annuals in the garden. These mums have limited root systems and will not survive the winter.

Hardy mums have root systems that spread out underground, enabling them to withstand cold temperatures in the garden, especially if they are planted in the spring and can become established before winter rolls around. Buying hardy mums in the fall does not guarantee that they will make it through the winter; these are better treated as annuals. They are normally sold outside in garden centers, grocery stores, or farm stands. Checking the tag will reveal if they are being sold as annuals.

Hardiness zone

Chrysanthemums grow best in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 9.

Color

Mums come in white, pink, red, purple, bronze, orange, or yellow. Choose a color that will complement its surroundings.

Buds

If you are buying a mature plant, look for one that is mostly in bud. Chrysanthemum flowers will normally bloom from four to eight weeks, and buying a plant in bud will give you the longest time to enjoy the flowers.

how to care for mums with orange mums on a pot

Good branching and new growth

A plant with the most branching and new growth will produce the most flowers and give a full, healthy appearance. Avoid plants with broken branches or spent flowers.

Well watered

Choose a plant with firm leaves and upright flowers. Droopy plants with yellowed bottom leaves — a sign they have not been watered properly — may not grow successfully.

Pest and disease free

Inspect the plant thoroughly on both sides of the leaves for signs of insects, such as aphids or spider mites, and for diseases that cause curling, moldy, or yellow or mottled leaves. If something doesn’t look right, don’t buy it!

Tips on how to care for mums

Light

Chrysanthemums grow best in a sunny spot that is sheltered from the wind. They can grow in partial shade but will tend to be spindly and won’t put out as many blooms as they would in full sun.

Soil

Mums are adaptable to many soil types as long as they are well draining. Organic soils or those amended with compost or peat, with a slightly acidic pH of 6.5, are best. Turn over the soil to a depth of 24 inches and mix with the organic material. Plant container-grown mums in a standard indoor potting mix.

Water

During dry weather, water hardy garden mums thoroughly down to the roots. Light watering keeps roots growing at a shallow depth, making them more susceptible to drying out and becoming damaged during the winter. Chrysanthemums grown in containers need to be watered more frequently than in-garden plants since their soil dries out quicker. Water them thoroughly when the soil is dry an inch down from the top, allowing the water to drain through the holes in the bottom of the pot. Both in-garden and container-grown plants should only be watered on the soil beneath the plants to avoid fungal diseases on the foliage.

Fertilizer

Chrysanthemums are heavy feeders, so mix some complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, into the soil at the time of planting in the spring and then again in midsummer. Fertilize fall-planted mums once at planting, and container-grown mums with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer twice a season.

how to care for mums with women planting mums in the ground

Pruning

If you buy young plants in the spring, pinching them back once or twice during the season encourages them to be bushy, with lots of flowers. Pinch each stem back to the first leaf when the plants are about 6 inches high in the spring. After the stems grow 5 to 8 inches long, pinch them back again in midsummer for continued lateral branching. Plants bought in the late summer or fall should be well branched and won’t need pruning, except for deadheading spent flowers.

Mulching

Apply a layer of mulch in late fall to protect in-garden plants during the winter months.

Pests and diseases

Watch for aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, leafhoppers, and plant bugs on the leaves. If the plants are crowded together without much air circulation in shady, humid conditions, they are prone to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, botrytis blight, leaf spot, and fusarium wilt.

Types of Roses: How to Identify and Care For Them

Roses are the royalty of the flower world, having been cultivated for over 5,000 years. These beautiful flowers have long been used as garden ornamentals and cut flowers, and made into perfumes, flavorings, condiments, medicines…even ice cream! They have had an honored place in art, literature, and movies, and are prized as much for their appearance as for the deep and heartfelt emotions they conjure up.

There are around 150 wild species of roses and a staggering 30,000 cultivated varieties. Organizing them all can get complicated, so this article will try and simplify how types of roses are categorized and highlight the distinct characteristics of each kind.

Types of roses by category

Roses can be sorted into three groups: species roses, old garden roses (before 1867), and modern roses (after 1867). They can also be grouped informally into categories by their growth habits (more on that later).

Species roses

These wildflower roses are the ancestors of old garden and modern roses. Most are native to Asia, but others come from Europe, North America, and northern Africa. They generally bloom once a year and have simple flowers with five flat petals and a strong fragrance. Many are grown as garden flowers, some are involved in the hybridization of new varieties, and still others are used as rootstocks because of their vigor and hardiness.

Types of species roses

Lady Banks’ rose (Rosa banksiae)

Originally from China, this rose has small, light-yellow flowers that grow in bunches at the ends of its long, arching branches and have a sweet, violet-like scent. It is an evergreen, thorn-less, shrubby vine that can grow 20 feet high and blooms earlier than most other rose species. It is often grown as an accent or border plant, or against a support, such as a fence.

Musk rose (Rosa moschata)

Native to the Himalayas, the musk rose is a medium-sized rambler that can grow to 10 feet tall. It has simple white flowers with yellow centers that grow in loose groups at the ends of the branches and bloom repeatedly from spring to fall. The musk rose does well as a hedge or border plant, or in a wildlife garden.

Prairie rose, Virginia rose (Rosa virginiana)

The prairie rose is native to eastern North America and is grown in coastal gardens — it is a salt-tolerant plant — as well as in cottage and pollinator gardens. It has pink petals with yellow centers, fiery red-orange leaves in the fall, and red rose hips. It has not been used much for hybridization, but it is grown for its fragrance, repeat blooming, fall colors, and fleshy fruit.

Sweetbriar, eglantine rose (Rosa rubiginosa)

This wild rose, originally from Europe and western Asia, grows along roadsides and is known as a screening or border shrub. It grows to about six feet high and has pink flowers that bloom in the late spring and early summer. Both its flowers and leaves are fragrant; the former have a spicy scent and the latter’s smell is reminiscent of apples. Attractive red rose hips develop after the flowers have faded.

Old garden roses

Old garden roses, or heritage roses, were developed from early European and Chinese cultivars before the arrival of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. They are typically disease resistant and very hardy, and their double flowers are highly fragrant. European cultivars bloom once a year on old canes, and Chinese hybrids of China and tea roses bloom continuously from spring to fall on new canes.

Types of old garden roses

Alba roses

One of the earliest old garden roses, these fragrant flowers are cream colored to pale pink and bloom once in late spring or early summer. They are vigorous climbers, disease resistant, hardy in northern climates, and tolerant of cold and shade.

Bourbon roses

These beautiful roses were developed on Bourbon Island (now called Réunion Island, a French island located in the Indian Ocean about 600 miles east of Madagascar). They are intensely fragrant, almost thorn-less, possess a dense flower head with up to 40 petals, and bloom repeatedly in hues of pink, white, or red. Bourbon roses are tender in northern climates but adaptable to sun or shade, and can be trained to climb.

Centifolia (cabbage roses)

These roses were developed in the Netherlands and named for their dense, cabbage-like flower heads. They were popular during the 17th century and frequently appeared in the Dutch Old Masters’ paintings. Nodding flowers in white, pink, lavender, or red bloom once in the early summer. They are hardy and can grow tall, but their floppy canes bend over and often need support.

China roses

These four- to 10-foot-high shrubs from China bloom from spring to fall and have single, and sometimes double, fragrant pink or red flowers. They have been used extensively in the development of tea roses and long-blooming varieties. China roses are a perfect addition to cottage gardens but are not hardy in colder climates.

Damask roses

Damask roses are named for the city of Damascus, Syria, and were important in the lineage of old European garden roses. Light pink to red fragrant flowers grow in groups on tall, thorny stems and bloom either early or late, depending on the variety. Damask rose hybrids were the start of the hardy, repeat-flowering roses that are so popular today.

Gallica roses

Gallica roses originated in Europe and western Asia, and are considered the first hybridized roses of the old garden category. Their highly fragrant double, or semi-double, flowers come in various shades of pink, red, or maroon, or can be striped. They bloom once in the summer on canes that grow to 4 feet high and are tolerant of cold and shade.

Hybrid musk roses

These roses grow in clusters on long, arching canes up to six feet. Their delicate light pink, white, yellow, or peach-colored flowers have a strong, musky scent. They are disease resistant, repeat flowering, and vigorous — perfect for growing against a wall or fence.

Hybrid perpetual roses

These hybrids of the repeat-flowering Asian roses and the old European hybrids were all the rage in Victorian England. They are tender, upright shrubs with clusters of large, fragrant, double flowers that bloom profusely in the spring and then sporadically until fall. Their popularity began to fade as hybrid teas gained favor in the gardening world.

Hybrid rugosa roses

Originally from Asia, hybrid rugosa roses have dark green, wrinkly foliage and highly fragrant, repeat-blooming, single or double flowers. They are hardy, disease resistant, and salt spray tolerant, and are excellent for a wildlife or pollinator garden.

Moss roses

These roses, known for the moss-like growth on the sepals that give off a woodsy scent when touched, originated from mutations in cabbage or damask roses. Those with a cabbage rose heritage flower once, and those hybridized from damask roses are repeat flowering. They are hardy and densely branched, with fragrant flowers in a variety of colors.

Noisette roses

A chance cross between a China rose and a naturalized musk rose led to the development of the blush noisette. Other varieties were developed and became highly popular in Europe and the United States. They have deliciously fragrant flower clusters on tall, bushy plants and are usually repeat bloomers, but are tender in northern climates.

Portland roses

These fragrant flowers were developed from one rose that was sent from Italy to the English Duchess of Portland in 1775. They grow to no more than 12 inches in height, with small, pink flowers that mainly bloom in the summer. Abundant in the early 19^th century, Portland roses soon saw their popularity diminish with the development of the bourbon and hybrid perpetual roses. Today, only a handful of varieties remain.

Tea roses

Hybrid tea-scented roses arrived in Europe from China in the early 19th century, when breeders crossed them with China roses, bourbons, and noisettes. The results were tall, elegant tea roses in white or pastel, with high central petals and wide lower petals that curl under. Tea roses are not hardy in cold climates but are disease resistant, with repeat-blooming, fragrant, gently nodding flowers. They are still grown today and are used for breeding modern hybrid teas.

Modern roses

The introduction of the hybrid tea rose “La France” in 1867 marked the starting point for modern roses. Since then, breeders have developed thousands of varieties that can be grouped by their growth and flowering habits. Unlike old garden roses, most modern roses are repeat bloomers from summer to fall. They are generally not fragrant and less hardy and disease resistant than old garden roses, but their blooms are larger, and they have a longer vase life.

Types of modern roses

English/David Austin roses

British rose breeder David Austin developed new varieties of roses in the 1960s with the rosette shapes and intoxicating fragrances of old garden roses, and the repeat-blooming traits and color spectrum of modern roses. These were highly successful, and new varieties are still being developed today.

Floribunda roses

Floribundas are small, bushy, easy-to-grow roses that present lavish flower clusters from spring to the first frost. Their flower color varies with the cultivar, and they are fairly hardy and disease resistant. Floribundas are excellent in mass plantings and are often seen in public and commercial spaces, in addition to home gardens.

Grandiflora roses

Hybrids of floribundas and hybrid teas, grandiflora roses were fashionable during the 20^th century. They are tall, vigorous, hardy shrubs that have large, showy flowers with rolled-under petals similar to hybrid teas. Like floribundas, they grow in clusters and are reliable repeat bloomers.

Hybrid tea roses

Hybrid teas were created from hybrid perpetuals and tea roses, and have qualities of both. They are important in the floral industry, as their long, upright stems and large, regal blooms make them perfect cut flowers. Hybrid teas were the most popular roses of the 20^th century because of their elegance, fragrance, and spring-to-fall flowering. They have a reputation for being difficult flowers to grow, though, due to their lack of hardiness and need for high maintenance.

Polyantha roses

These roses are perfect for the garden or containers. The small bushes, covered in bunches of tiny flowers in white, pink, or red, were developed by crossing two species of roses, Rosa chinensis and Rosa multiflora. Polyanthas bloom prolifically from summer to fall, and are disease resistant and easy to maintain.

Types of roses by growth habit

In addition to the categorizations above, roses can also be loosely grouped into five categories according to growth habit.

Miniature roses

These tiny plants are hybrid teas or grandifloras in miniature, ranging from six inches to 18 inches tall. They come in a number of colors and are profuse repeat bloomers from spring to fall, usually for two to three weeks at a time. Miniatures do well in containers indoors or outdoors and are excellent border plants in the garden.

Climbing roses

Climbers can grow up to 15 feet tall on stiff canes. They are repeat bloomers with large flowers in clusters of five, and they bloom more profusely if allowed to grow horizontally. Climbing roses can be encouraged to grow upright against a wall or fence, or tethered around a pillar or trellis while the canes are young and flexible. They are not hardy and will only survive the winter in warmer climates (USDA hardiness zones seven and above, generally speaking).

Groundcover roses

Also known as landscape roses, groundcover roses are typically one to three feet tall and wide, and are excellent for mass planting. They are hardy, low-growing, fragrant roses with disease and pest resistance, repeat flowering, and little to no maintenance. These roses do well in the garden, window boxes, or hanging pots.

Rambling roses

Ramblers have flexible canes and will grow over anything near them, such as a trellis, fence, or arch. They have clusters of seven medium-sized flowers and usually bloom once a season.

Shrub roses

Shrub roses are any type of rose that does not fit into any other category. They are often hybrids of modern roses that have been crossed with species or old garden roses and can be almost any shape, with blooms either singly or in clusters. They are generally repeat bloomers, very hardy, and easy to grow.

Guide to Autumn Flowers

With autumn comes cool weather, warm colors, and – surprisingly – lots of different flowers. From asters to pansies, there are plenty of easy-to-grow plants that can make a wonderful addition to your fall garden.

Here we share care tips for autumn flowers along with décor suggestions that will really make your home and garden pop this season!

Brighten up your patio with chrysanthemums

Replace your fading summer annuals with bright chrysanthemums, or plant them in containers for your patio or porch, or in hanging pots. Varieties include pom-poms, old-fashioned daisy-like blooms, tall-growing or mounding, and even huge spider mums. They come in an array of colors to complement your décor as well: white, yellow, orange, red, red-orange, lavender, purple, and even multicolored.

Since they’re perennials, chrysanthemums should be planted in the spring or summer in cooler regions so that they have time to develop their shallow root systems. They are often sold in garden centers as short-season annuals for fall planting. In warmer regions, many varieties of mums can be planted in either the spring or fall and grown as perennials. When temperatures drop, a layer of mulch around the plants helps them to winter over.

Chrysanthemums require full sun for five to six hours per day and fertile, well-draining soil. Space the garden-planted mums 2 ½ to 3 feet apart to give them air circulation, and water them well, allowing them to dry between watering to give the soil a chance to drain. They don’t like wet feet and will develop root rot if kept in water. Be sure the containers and hanging pots have drainage holes to keep the plants healthy.

Attract butterflies to your garden with asters

The star-shaped asters sold in garden centers are bright purple, pink, or blue with yellow centers and rows of delicate, narrow petals. They are great in containers or in your garden, and are irresistible to bees and butterflies.

Asters are perennial flowers that can be planted in the fall in both cool and warm regions. Some varieties are mounding, and others grow 3 to 4 feet tall and may require staking to keep them upright. Plant them in containers or in a sunny spot in your garden — one with at least five to six hours of full sun per day, since they tend to get leggy in part shade. They thrive in well-draining, fertile soil, spaced 2 ½ to 3 feet apart for enough air circulation. Asters are susceptible to powdery mildew, so water the soil underneath them, being careful not to soak the leaves or flowers.

Add a splash of color to hanging pots with pansies

Pansies are among the most cheerful fall flowers.

Pansies, the autumn flowers with cheerful little faces, are cool-weather plants that are among the first sold in the spring and fall. They come in white, yellow, peach, blue, dark red, and bicolor. Pansies are easy to grow and add a splash of color to containers, hanging pots, and your garden as edging or bedding plants. They are perfect for beginning gardeners.

Pansies are perennials that are often grown as annuals. They are best planted in the early spring and fall in cool regions, and as late fall and winter plants in warm regions. They like full sun but need to be protected with part shade in warm regions.

Pansies thrive in fertile, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. They need to be watered consistently and deadheaded to keep them blooming. To grow them as perennials, add a layer of mulch that will shelter their roots in the cold weather and help them winter over.

Bring imagination to your backyard with celosias

Celosia flowers have been said to look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book! Wool flower, cockscomb, dragon’s breath, and wheat celosia are some of the fanciful names for different species of these flowers, each of which has a unique form. They add brilliant spots of red, orange, yellow, pink, or purple to your late summer and fall garden, and their striking shapes make them excellent accent plants for your flower beds or containers.

In warm climates, they are tender perennials but are usually sold as annuals everywhere. Celosias love full sun and need at least six hours per day. They are finicky about water and prefer slightly moist but never wet soil. Root rot can be a problem, so be sure to lighten the soil with plenty of organic matter to keep it well drained.

Decorate for the season indoors with crotons

Crotons, or garden crotons, are shrubs grown for their interesting foliage splashed with multicolored red, green, and yellow.

These plants are perennial in very warm climates but can be grown successfully in the fall outdoors in temperate climates while the weather is still warm, usually in containers.

The perfect situation for crotons is a warm and humid environment with bright, indirect light, such as on a porch or in the dappled shade. They are great houseplants and can be brought in when temperatures outside fall below 50 degrees. If you have enough indoor light, the kitchen or bathroom might be the best spot for your plant. Use a well-draining potting mix and water regularly to keep the soil moist but not wet. Leaf drop on these plants comes from too cool temperatures, drafts, and low humidity, so keep it warm and mist regularly.

A word of caution: All parts of croton plants are poisonous if ingested and irritating if the sap gets on skin. Keep your plant away from children and pets to be on the safe side.

Maintain a staple bloom with marigolds

These bright, layered blooms add a delightful pop of fall to any garden, with varying hues of yellow, orange, red, and maroon. Marigolds are a signature autumn flower for their sunny appearance as well as their mild maintenance needs. They will thrive in well-drained soil and stay lively into frosty conditions. These annual blooms should be planted in the spring as the frost clears. Marigolds are a sturdy selection for the fall months and won’t drain your energy in the garden.

Keep in sunny with black-eyed Susans

As summer transitions into fall, the temperatures drop and the sun sets earlier in the day. While fall is known for its darker colors, you can still sustain a bright glow with the rich yellow petals of the black-eyed Susan. These annual and perennial blooms are reminiscent of a sunflower but are actually a part of the aster family. The sunflower-daisy hybrid begins to bloom in June and continues to attract bees and butterflies through October. The black-eyed Susan is one of the most common wildflower s in North America, as it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions.

Don’t forget about hydrangeas in the cooler months

Hydrangeas thrive in the spring, summer, and fall months. This flower has many varieties that bloom at different times and in different conditions. Keep a look out for the macrophylla variety, whose larger leaves and cone-shaped flowers differentiate it from other types. This beautiful pink-and-blue bloom will contribute to the fall foliage for which the season is so well known. The color of the flower depends on the acidity of the soil in which it’s grown. To tinker with the color, add sulfur or aluminum sulfate to promote a blue bloom or dolomitic lime for pink.

How to Grow, Handle, and Care for Sunflowers

Sunflowers come in a variety of colors and sizes, but the most familiar type is the annual sunflower that grows to 10-feet tall. It has thick, fuzzy stems, heart-shaped leaves, and bright yellow petals circling the flat flower head, from which small, fertile flowers bloom and develop into seeds that make for good snacking (read until the end to find out how to dry them yourself).

These beautiful, colorful flowers can enhance any garden or living space — if you take care of them the right way.

Growing sunflowers in a garden

You can grow sunflowers from seeds or small plants that you buy. They are either annual or perennial, depending on the variety and region where they are grown. Many sunflower varieties are perennial in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8, and some are annual or grown as annuals.

Choosing the right spot

care for sunflowers with sunflowers growing in the sun

True to their name, sunflowers love the sun and will bend to follow it as it moves across the sky. Choose a spot in the garden that gets six to eight hours of sunshine a day. Tall sunflowers are stunning against a bright fence or wall, and shorter varieties, with smaller flowers in yellow, orange, maroon, or brown colors, liven up a sunny bed or border. They bloom all summer into fall, providing consistently bright colors to the garden as other flowers bloom and fade.

Planting your sunflowers

Your sunny spot needs to have loose, well-draining soil that allows the sunflower’s roots to easily grow down and establish strong support for the tall plant. If you’re seeding sunflowers directly into the ground, dig a hole 12 to 24 inches deep, and mix in some compost or other organic matter with the native soil.

care for sunflowers with couple watering seedlings

Plant the seeds two to three weeks before the last predicted frost. Drop them into holes 1 to 2 inches deep and water them thoroughly. You can plant multiple seeds to give yourself the best chance for a healthy crop; after they’ve grown to about 6 inches tall, thin out the weakest, smallest seedlings. Tall sunflowers will need to be thinned to 1 to 2 feet apart, but smaller varieties can be thinned closer together. You can gauge the best distance apart by how tall or branching your varieties will be.

If you want to start the seeds inside, plant them in a loose seed-starting mix five to seven weeks before the last expected frost. It will take them about seven to 10 days to sprout. Then, after the date of the last estimated frost, acclimate the seedlings to the cold weather by setting them outside a week before you want to plant them. Dig small holes and gently transfer the seedlings from their starting pots to the soil. Water them thoroughly.

Small plants bought at a garden center can be set in the garden in the late spring or early summer. Tall sunflowers should be set 1 to 2 feet apart; smaller varieties can be set closer. Water them well, and watch them grow.

Care after planting

Sunflowers don’t require a lot of care since they’re drought and heat tolerant, and resistant to pests. They are, however, heavy feeders. You can add a weak dilution of liquid fertilizer at planting to encourage good root growth, and then apply a liquid fertilizer monthly throughout the growing season. Sunflowers tolerate periods of drought, but they will be healthier and produce larger flowers if their soil is moist. When you water, stay a good 3 to 5 inches from the stems of the plants to prevent fungal disease. As an alternative, you can mix a circle of slow-release, granular fertilizer into the soil around the plants once in the spring.

Growing sunflowers in containers

care for sunflowers with sunflowers growing in a container

Shorter varieties of sunflowers can grow very well in containers. They will need a good-quality, well-draining potting mix and a big enough pot so that their taproots can develop. Sunflowers that grow up to 2-feet tall will need 10-to-12-inch pots, and those that grow to 4 or 5 feet or more will need 3-to-5-gallon pots. Make sure the pot is deep and has at least one drainage hole to keep the roots healthy and prevent root rot.

Set the pot in a bright spot that gets sun for a good portion of the day. When the soil is dry, water 1 to 2 inches down from the top. Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer two to three times over the spring and summer or work some slow-release fertilizer into the soil once in the spring. Take care to keep both the water and fertilizer away from the stems of the plant to keep them from developing a fungal disease.

How to prepare a cut sunflower

Cutting sunflowers early in the morning will give you the best chance for fresh flowers that haven’t wilted in the heat and sun. Use a clean, sharp knife or clippers and trim the ends at an angle before putting them in a vase.

Choose a clean vase that is tall enough to support the stems, and fill the vase with lukewarm water. The flowers should last about a week if you change the water every day. Keep them in a cool part of the house, away from direct sunlight.

Drying sunflowers for seeds

Sunflower seeds are a healthy snack for people as well as wild birds, and harvesting them from your flowers is a simple procedure. The traditional tall sunflower varieties with large flower heads are better for seeds than the new hybrids that have been developed for their smaller, colorful, ornamental flowers.

care for sunflowers with girl holding sunflower seed

Toward the end of the summer, when the leaves are wilted and have turned yellow, and the petals are drooping and going by, the seeds should be brown and plump, and ready for harvesting.

Cut the stalks about a foot down from the flowers and either hang them up or set them out to dry for about five days. If they’re drying outside, be sure to cover them so birds won’t get to them before you do.

After that time, rub the seeds off with gloves or a tool, and collect them in a pan. Spread the seeds out so they are all exposed to the air and pick out any dried petals or leaves. Let them sit overnight to dry further, and voila! You have your own homegrown, healthy snack.

Rose Care: 5 Steps to Keeping Roses Fresher Longer

a photo of rose care with woman receiving roses

You’ve been sent a gift box of long stem roses or a gorgeous arrangement in a vase from someone special. You’re delighted, and now you want to give your new flowers the best possible care so that you can enjoy them for weeks to come.

Here are five things you need to know about rose care.

1. Unpacking your roses

As soon as you receive your roses, take them out of the box and put them in a clean vase or container of tepid water until you’re ready to arrange them. If they arrive already arranged in a vase, carefully unwrap them and make sure the vase is at least three-fourths full. Then, add water if necessary.

You may see some bruised, brown, or damaged outer petals in boxed roses. Don’t be upset; these are called “guard petals,” and they are deliberately left on by growers to protect the inner petals while the roses are being packed and in transit. If you want to remove a guard petal, hold it at the base and gently pull it down toward the stem so you don’t damage the rest of the flower.

2. Adding the flower food

If you received an arrangement of roses in a vase, add the packet of flower food and preservative to the water that is usually included with it. Long stem roses in a box should also come with a packet of flower food. Pick out an appropriate tall vase in which to arrange your roses and fill it three-fourths full with tepid water, and add the flower food.

a photo of rose care with making rose food

If you didn’t receive flower food, you can make your own. Mix three-fourths teaspoon of household bleach, two tablespoons of lemon juice, and one tablespoon of sugar in one quart of water.

The bleach will keep the water clear and bacteria free, the lemon juice will keep the acidity of the water stable, and the sugar will provide food for the flowers. Make enough of this recipe for several changes of water in your vase.

3. Cutting the stems

Preparing the stems is one of the most important things you can do for rose care, and is especially important for boxed roses. Cut one inch off the base of each stem at an angle with sharp, clean scissors or clippers while holding the bottom of the stem under water.

Stems sitting on the bottom of a vase with flat cuts keep the flowers from drawing up enough water. Cutting the stems at an angle gives the stems more surface area for water uptake and ensures the flowers will stay well hydrated. Flowers arriving in an arrangement should already have their stems cut at an angle, but boxed flowers won’t, and will need to be cut. If there are filler flowers, cut the stems of those, too, as well as the filler foliage, such as ferns.

Clip off any leaves that will sit below the water’s surface. Leaves in the water will decay and cause bacteria to grow, shortening the vase life of your roses. Snipping the leaves off next to the stems is preferable to pulling them off, as this won’t damage the stems as much.

a photo of rose care with woman arranging roses in a vase

4. Arranging roses in a vase

After you unpack your flowers from the box, prepare the vase with water, and cut all the stems, it’s time to arrange your flowers. All this takes is three easy steps.

First, separate the roses, filler flowers, and filler foliage.
Next, create a grid in the vase with the filler foliage and flowers, crossing the stems under the water. These stems will hold the roses in place in the arrangement.
Now, place the roses one by one in the grid you’ve created.

Voila! You have a beautiful arrangement.

If you’re more of a visual learner, watch this rose care video with floral expert Julie Mulligan about how to arrange flowers in a vase.

How to Arrange Roses Step-by-Step with Floral Expert Julie Mulligan

5. Extending the life of your roses

Whether you have a prepared arrangement or box of flowers that you arranged yourself, you want your flowers to last as long as possible. Here are five rose care tips to make your beautiful blooms live longer.

Recut the stems one at a time, taking 1 to 2 inches off each. Be sure to cut them at an angle with sharp scissors or clippers so you don’t crush the ends, and cut off any leaves that will sit below the water line in the vase.
As a general guideline, change the water every 2 to 4 days, but if it starts to get cloudy, change it ASAP. The best way to do this is to take the whole bouquet out and put it in another container while you’re refilling the vase.
Recut the stems and change the water regularly, and add fresh flower food every time you do the latter.
After a week or more, some of the flowers will be past their prime and can be discarded. The remaining flowers will have shorter stems and can be put in a small vase. When this is no longer possible, the flowers with very short stems (or none at all) can still be enjoyed in other containers, such as bowls, fancy glass baskets, or jars.
Cut flowers will last longer in a cool environment (65° F to 72° F) and out of direct sunlight. At night, put them in the coolest room of the house, out of the way of drafts from heating or cooling vents.

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5 Most Popular Flowering Plants for Your Garden and How to Care for Them

The series “Seasonal Design” covers home decor and how flowers elevate an environment. In this story, we explore the most popular flowering plants for your garden and hard.

When spring unfolds with warmer temperatures and gentle rain, gardeners look forward to planting their properties with colorful and interesting flowers, shrubs, and trees. Depending on the region, some can be planted successfully in the ground, and others are better living in containers.

Here’s a guide to some of the most popular flowering plants and how to care for them.

Photo of an azalea, a popular outdoor flowering plant

1. Azalea (Rhododendron spp.)

Azaleas are annual showstoppers with their brilliant flowers that cover the bushes in the spring. They are the state flower of Georgia and are native to Asia, Europe, and North America. They bloom with colors of lavender, white, pink, orange, or red, depending on the variety. Most azaleas are deciduous shrubs that grow from 2 to 8 feet, which is generally not as tall as their close rhododendron cousins. They look beautiful in any garden design and can be grown as accent plants to brighten up shady spots on a property, grouped in a woodland garden, clipped into low foundation plantings, or as attractive container shrubs.

Azalea care

Azaleas are easy-care shrubs that grow best in USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9. They prefer to grow in cool, partially shaded areas with dappled light, especially in the southern parts of their range, which get the most intense sun. Similar to other ericaceous family members, such as rhododendrons, mountain laurels, and blueberries, they are acid-loving plants. The best soil for azaleas is well-drained, acidic soil that can be amended with compost to afford it good nutrition. If your plant needs additional feeding, fertilize in the late spring or early fall. Prune the branches back after it blooms in the spring to maintain its size and promote more branching.

Container-grown azaleas

Small azaleas grown in pots are a beautiful addition to a shady porch, deck, or balcony. Use a planter that is large enough (2 feet in diameter) for good root growth, and make sure it has at least one drainage hole in the bottom to prevent root rot from accumulated water. When you’re ready to plant your azalea, use a well-draining potting mix that is formulated for acid-loving plants. Water after planting, and then again when the soil is dry an inch down from the top. The soil will dry out faster in a pot than in a garden. When grown in a container, they won’t grow as large as in the garden, but you can trim them back after they flower to keep them to the size and shape you want.

2. Sunflower (Helianthus spp.)

Bright, cheery sunflowers are native to North America and Mexico, and come in many sizes depending on the species and variety. They are in the daisy family, and most sunflowers grow on thick, single stems and have large, fuzzy, heart-shaped leaves. Bright yellow petals circle the flat flower heads, and the small blooms on the face of the flower heads develop into sunflower seeds. They bloom from summer through fall. The most common type is the annual sunflower, which grows up to 10 feet tall or more and produces seeds that are eaten by both wildlife and people. They are thought to have been domesticated by Native Americans up to 5,000 years ago for their seeds as a source of flour and cooking oil. The sunflower is the state flower of Kansas, where fields of these big, beautiful plants are grown.

Sunflower care

Sunflowers are usually grown as annuals, though some varieties can be grown as perennials in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8. They can be started from seeds or small potted plants. Sow the seeds in full sun 2 to 3 feet apart in well-draining, moist, slightly acidic soil after the danger of frost has passed in the spring. Small plants can be set in the garden in late spring or early summer between 2 and 3 feet apart. Water them well and watch them grow. A row of sunflowers is a cheerful addition against a sunny wall or fence. You can gauge the best placement of your plants by how tall your variety will grow.

Container-grown sunflowers

Small varieties of sunflowers can be grown in containers. Choose a pot with a drainage hole in the bottom that is at least 18 inches across or larger if you have more than one plant. The soil should be loose, well-draining potting mix that you plant the seeds in or transfer from a small, potted plant that you have bought. Seeds or small sunflowers will only need to be planted 6 inches apart in the container. Water them in well, and enjoy their jaunty flowers on a sunny porch, deck, or around a pool.

Photo of a lilac, a popular flowering plant

3. Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

Lilac bushes grace doorways and gardens with their pretty, heart-shaped leaves and sprays of sweet-smelling purple, lavender, pink, or white flowers in the spring. They come in different sizes, depending on the variety, but they never fail to charm with their graceful leaves and panicles of blossoms. Lilacs take well to pruning, but left to their own will grow up to 15 inches high and 12 inches wide in the garden. They are native to Europe and also the state flower of New Hampshire.

Lilac care

Lilacs are easy-care bushes, but to remain healthy, they need full sun and good air circulation to prevent powdery mildew from forming on their leaves. They are at home in loamy, well-draining, neutral pH soil, and they like to be watered when the soil is dry. To give them a boost, feed them in the spring with a balanced fertilizer that will encourage both leaf growth and blooming. After they flower, prune out any old or dead branches and thin some interior branches to allow more air circulation. Most lilacs will grow well in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 7, although some varieties will grow in southern climates as well.

Container-grown lilacs

Lilacs do better in the garden than in a container, but for those who have limited space and still want to enjoy these lovely plants, it is possible to grow dwarf varieties successfully in a pot. Choose a large enough container with enough depth to allow good root growth (24″ × 18″) and one with a drainage hole. Plant your lilac in neutral pH potting mix. Most commercial mixes are slightly acidic, so it’s a good idea to add some garden lime to keep it neutral. The soil will dry out more quickly in a container than in the garden, so be sure to water when the soil is dry 2 inches from the top of the pot. Prune it back after flowering for good air circulation and to keep it at a manageable size.

Photo of a hibiscus, a popular flowering plant

4. Tropical hibiscus, rose of China (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)

Native to Southeast Asia, the beautiful tropical hibiscus is the national flower of Malaysia. It is a favorite worldwide, known for its large flowers and shiny, dark blue-green leaves. The flowers can grow up to 6 inches in diameter in colors of red, pink, purple, white, peach, or orange, depending on the variety. The shrub can reach 10 feet high in southern areas (USDA hardiness zones 9 to 12), where they can be grown as perennials that flower year round. In areas where temperatures dip below 50 degrees, tropical hibiscus can only be grown as an annual and can attain a height of 3 to 6 feet.

Tropical hibiscus care

Hibiscus plants love warmth, humidity, and sunshine. In northern areas, they will need to be in full sun, but in hotter, drier areas, they will do better in partial or dappled shade. Your garden soil should be well draining and have plenty of organic matter to nourish the plants and retain moisture. Hibiscus should be set about 3 feet apart to give them room to spread. They need plenty of water, so give them a drink frequently, especially in hot weather to keep them hydrated, and you can fertilize once or twice a year with a slow-release fertilizer.

Container-grown hibiscus

Hibiscus is a perfect plant to grow in a container, and can be placed anywhere there is sun, preferably out of the wind. Use a good, well-draining potting mix and a pot with at least one drainage hole. Container-grown plants will dry out much quicker than those in the ground, and your hibiscus is already a thirsty plant. Water it daily, and fertilize it with a weak liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks to keep it healthy and blooming. If you are in an area where the temperature drops below 50 degrees, you can bring the plant inside for the winter. It will not grow as fast with less light, but put it near the brightest window you have or use a grow light. In order to keep it going through the winter, pinch off any buds that develop so that its energy will be focused on growing and staying healthy.

5. Mandevilla, rocktrumpet (Mandevilla spp.)

Bright, 2-inch, red, white, or pink Mandevilla flowers lend a sunny, tropical flair wherever they’re grown. Native to the southwestern U.S., Mexico, Central and South America, and the Caribbean, mandevilla is a tropical vine usually grown as an annual in the United States that blooms from summer through fall. In the most southern areas of the country (USDA hardiness zones 10-11), it can be grown as a perennial and blooms year round. The vines can grow up to 10 feet tall and are spectacular climbing up a trellis, over a fence, or in a hanging pot or trellised container.

Mandevilla care

Plant your mandevilla in the garden after all chance of frost is passed. It does best in neutral to slightly acidic, well-drained soil in full sun to dappled shade. Let it grow up a support, such as a trellis or fence, or, to make it bushier, pinch it back in the early spring. Water your mandevilla to keep the soil consistently moist and fertilize with a weak, general fertilizer every two to three weeks so that you can enjoy the bright flowers as long as they bloom.

Container-grown mandevilla

Mandevillas are frequently grown in containers with a short trellis, which makes these vines portable to any sunny location. When transferring them to a decorative planter, make sure it has at least one drainage hole in the bottom. A good commercial potting mix will do nicely for this plant. Keep the soil consistently moist without being soggy, and mist it daily if it’s in a dry area since it does best in high humidity.

How to Grow, Care for, and Handle Your Tulips

Spring is in the air and that means an abundance of blossoms everywhere from the neighborhood park to your own backyard. One iconic springtime flower that’ll add color to your home is the tulip. Get ready to take advantage of peak tulip season with our top tulip care tips, from selecting the perfect bulb to caring for cut flowers.

Selecting the perfect bulb

When you’re buying tulip bulbs, be sure that they are healthy. They should be firm, not mushy, and they should be a good size. Some surface mold on the bulb is not a problem. Different cultivars will produce different-sized bulbs, so choose the largest of the kind you are buying. Bulbs are the plants’ winter storage units, supplying nutrition during dormancy. A larger bulb will mean a larger tulip plant in the spring.

How to choose the right spot in the garden

Tulips are winter-hardy bulbs that grow in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8. They grow best in a spot with sun to light shade, and in fertile soil with plenty of organic matter like peat moss or compost. It’s important for the soil to drain well so the bulbs won’t rot. Tulips won’t produce many flowers in full shade, and they won’t thrive in soggy, poorly drained soil. If your garden is too wet year-round, you might think about using a raised bed or a container for your tulips.

Tips for planting tulip bulbs

In the garden

Plant your tulip bulbs in the fall outside in the garden any time after the first frost and before the ground freezes and gets hard. Dig a hole that is about three times the depth as the size of the bulb or clear a flat area the right depth for several bulbs. Tulips usually need to be planted 6” to 8” down in the soil because of their large size. Smaller tulip bulb can be planted at a shallower depth of 4” to 5”. Plant the bulb with the pointed tip up and the flat part down. Backfill the hole, pat it down, and water thoroughly. When planting more than one bulb, tulips should be spaced 4” to 5” apart from their centers. Fertilize at planting and again when the shoots emerge in the spring. If squirrels or chipmunks threaten to dig up your bulbs, cover the soil with a wire mesh in the fall to keep them safe.

In a container

Tulips blooming in a container are a beautiful way to brighten up a porch or patio. Choose an appropriately sized pot for the number of tulips you want to grow and make sure it has a bottom hole for drainage so that the mix won’t be soggy. Use a good potting mix, not garden soil, so that it drains well. When you’re ready to plant the bulbs in the fall, it’s easier to moisten the mix first so that you can make individual planting holes. Set the bulbs in at about the same depth as they would be in the garden — 6” to 8” for big bulbs and 4” to 5” for small tulip bulbs, allowing at least 2”-3” at the bottom of the pot for root growth. Bulbs can be planted 1” to 2” apart at their centers.

Tulips need eight to 12 weeks of cold (35⁰ F to 45⁰ F) before they will bloom in the spring. If you live in a cold climate that will freeze the potting mix if left outside (USDA hardiness zones 3 to 6), bring the pot into a cool, protected area such as a garage, basement, or shed until spring. In zones 7 or 8, you will be able to leave the containers outside during the winter without harm.

For containers in all USDA zones, the potting mix should be kept moist but not wet. Do not water unless it begins to dry out. When the green shoots push up in the spring, bring the container out in the sunshine so they will grow and bloom. It will be about four to five weeks from the time the first shoots appear to when the tulips flower.

Tulip care after they’ve bloomed

With the right growing conditions, tulips will rebloom up to three years from the time of first planting. Cut the flowers off when they wilt but allow the leaves to keep growing to make more food for the bulbs. Then cut the leaves off once they start to yellow. Not all tulips will bloom again, so you’ll have another chance to plant different beautiful varieties.

When to buy tulips

Not ready to grow your own tulips? Good news: They’re readily available from 1-800-Flowers.com. Buy full bloom tulips ONLY if you’re planning to use them immediately; otherwise, buy or cut your own tulips when they are showing just a little bit of color. This will give your flowers more longevity.

How to arrange tulips

Tulips are sturdy flowers that can last up to 10 days if you know how to care for them correctly. Being one of the few flowers that continue to grow and mature after being cut, tulips can grow as much as a half-inch a day and are often best bought in bud form for ultimate longevity.

Tulip Tip: Arranging Tulips in a Tall Vase

Trim your tulips. When arranging, start by removing the lower foliage that may sit in the water. Removing these leaves will discourage bacteria grown which, in turn, may make the flowers wilt sooner. Then, cut off at least a half inch from the bottom of the stem.
Choose a suitable container: Choose a tall container if you want your tulips to stay straight and long. Choose a shorter and wider container if you want to give your tulips more room to move gracefully. Fill the vase a third of the way with water, and add some floral preservative (a.k.a. flower food). If floral food is not available, a half capful of bleach may help prevent bacterial growth. Don’t keep tulips and daffodils in the same vase because the sap from daffodils tend to clog the stems of other flowers which deteriorates vase life.
Soak up the sun. Tulips are phototropic, bending toward the light, so rotate container daily to help keep the stems upright. Re-cutting tulips every two days may help them last longer. Keep the vase away from the sun or other heat sources.
Snip selectively. If you cut tulips from a plant or a garden, cut them in bud form, but leave the foliage on the plant until it gets to be yellow and dry. The drying of foliage is what nourishes the bulb for the following year.

How to Arrange Tulips in a Vase Using a Grid

Clean vase = healthy flowers

Did you know that bacteria can collect and remain in a vase for years? Use a clean vase that has been washed with bleach to kill the bacteria and keep your flowers healthy and happy. As with all flowers, keep your tulips away from bright, sunny windows or other sources of extreme heat. Bending heads or “floppy” tulips can be corrected by wrapping the stems in plastic wrap or tissue paper, keeping all the flowers at the same height. After wrapping, trim the stems once more and place them back in fresh water. After a few hours, remove the wrapping and your flowers should be straight. This trick will only work if the flowers are fairly fresh.

Final tulip care tip: How to straighten bent stems

Watch floral expert Julie Mulligan’s tips for removing the bend from your tulips stems.

Tulip Care Tip: How to Straighten Bent Tulips

10 Fun Facts About Tulips

From tulips to chrysanthemums, our series “The Language of Flowers” explores everything from flower care tips to flower symbolism and meaning. Keep reading for some fascinating tulip facts!

The name “tulip” is derived from the Persian word delband, meaning “turban.” There are two possible stories as to the origin. The first asserts that the word comes from the actual shape of the tulip flower, which is reminiscent of a turban. The second story speculates that it was popular to wear this flower in one’s turban, which led to a translation error by historians.

Here are 10 more fascinating tulip facts.

1. Tulips are native to Central Asia

Tulips are wildflowers native to central Asia in the Tien Shan Mountains near the Russian-Chinese border. They spread west and were cultivated in the Ottoman Empire (modern-day Turkey) by 1000 A.D., when the sultans introduced huge beds of tulips to parks and palace gardens.

2. The tulip industry got its start in Holland

In the 1500s, Carolus Clusius, a botanist at the University of Leiden in the Netherlands, received some tulip bulbs from the ambassador to the sultan. Clusius grew the plants in his private collection, but he would not share his bulbs or sell them. As a result, the gardens were repeatedly raided and the bulbs sold. Holland’s tulip industry was born.

3. Tulip Mania is one of the most famous market crashes of all time

As the popularity of tulips in Holland grew, the bulbs’ value increased. They were considered a rarity and commanded an enormous price that only the wealthy could afford. There was a rush on tulip bulbs from 1634 to 1637 as speculators bought them hoping to sell at a high price. Many did during Tulip Mania, or the tulip craze, but in 1637 too many speculators sold at once and the tulip market crashed, ending this brief but memorable period.

4. Holland is still the largest producer of tulips

Tulip Mania ended in 1637, but the fascination with tulips was deeply rooted and grew into a huge commercial enterprise. Today, Holland is the largest producer of tulips worldwide, exporting about 3 billion bulbs per year.

5. Each color tulip carries its own significance

Generally, tulips symbolize love, but there is a different meaning based on the color of tulip in question. For love and romance, red tulips are the way to go. If you want to convey an apology, white tulips are the flowers that you seek. Purple tulips are associated with royalty, while yellow tulips are great for cheer and happiness.

6. Striped tulips were originally created from a virus

Tulips come in many solid colors, but there are striped ones, too. These unusual tulips were greatly prized and sold for a high price since the 1600s, but in 1931, scientists discovered that the coloring was caused by a virus spread by aphids (sap-sucking insects). Today, this coloring is reproduced artificially. The virus is still used to alter the DNA, but it’s done without aphids.

7. Tulips inspired many forms of art

Islamic art has featured tulips since the time of the sultans. Elsewhere, German painter Jacob Marrel created a book of paintings to market the different tulip varieties. His work inspired designs on textiles and furniture. The flowers were also seen in still-life paintings of the Dutch Old Masters during the 1600s. In the mid-1800s, tulips were a favorite subject in the Arts and Crafts movement, and Tiffany tulip lamps were produced in the late 1800s.

8. The word ‘tulip’ comes from a Persian word meaning ‘turban’

The word “tulip” comes from the graceful shape of the flower and the bulb that inspired the word “tülbend,” a Turkish pronunciation of the Persian word “dulband,” which means turban.

9. Keukenhof is the largest tulip garden in the world

Keukenhof in Holland is one of the largest gardens in the world. It’s home to the largest tulip garden, where over 7 million tulips bloom in April and May.

10. There are thousands of varieties of tulips

Over 3,500 named varieties of tulips exist today, and they are organized into 15 groups.

Single early: Short tulips with large, round flowers

Double early: Double-flowered and larger than the single early group

Triumph: Sturdy, mid-season tulips of varying shapes

Darwin hybrid: Large-flowered tulips on tall stems

Single late group: Small, rounded flowers on stiff stems

Lily-flowered: Mid-season, tall-stemmed, graceful flowers that flare outward

Fringed: petals with fringed edges that are mid- to late-flowering

Viridiflora: Late-blooming, green flowers

Rembrandt: “Broken” tulips that are striped due to the tulips breaking virus

Parrot: Late-flowering tulips with interesting, distorted petals

Double late: Tall, with rounded, late-blooming flowers

Kaufmanninana: Early flowering tulips that open flat

Fosteriana: Early flowering tulips with large flowers

Greigii: Early flowering tulips with large striped flowers on short stems

Miscellaneous: Varieties that don’t fit into the other groups

Unusual (and Funny) Flower Names

Comedians aren’t the only ones with a wacky sense of humor! Botanists and plant lovers have thought up some pretty unusual and funny flower names over the years. Think Pussytoes, Sneezeweed, and Corn-cockle! While these aren’t the scientific names, they’re memorable because they’re silly and usually descriptive of the plant in some way.

Here are some droll, quirky names of flowers.

Butter-and-eggs, common toadflax (Linaria vulgaris)

This perky yellow and white wildflower is native to Europe and central Asia, and was originally grown in the U.S. as a cultivated, perennial garden flower. It escaped and now has naturalized in the U.S. and Canada, and has become invasive in some areas. Butter-and-eggs is seen along roadsides, meadows, and waste places. It has been used medicinally in folk medicine and even as an insecticide.

Swamp lousewort (Pedicularis lanceolata)

This herbaceous perennial wildflower is unique for reasons other than just its name. The swamp lousewort is what’s known as a hemiparasite, meaning that in addition to collecting nutrients from the sun through photosynthesis, it also steals resources from nearby plants thanks to underground, connecting roots.

Thimbleweed, windflower (Anemone virginiana)

Thimbleweed is a little, white-flowered, herbaceous perennial that grows in open woodlands or dry, rocky hillsides in the eastern and central U.S. Its funny name comes from the thimble-shaped seed heads that form after the flowers go by. Its other common name, windflower, comes from the Greek word anemos, which means “wind.”

Bastard toadflax (Comandra umbellata)

funny flower names with bastard toadflax

Careful talking about this one in public! Years ago, Native Americans would eat the seeds of a bastard toadflax (also known by the less comedic name Comandra umbellata) and use other parts of the plant to treat colds, canker sores, and eye irritation.

Cheeses, cheeseweed (Malva neglecta)

What sounds like a crazy name actually makes sense. This flower’s round, flat seedpod looks like a wheel of cheese, flat pumpkin, or button. Cheeses have white to light pink or purple flowers, and spread low to the ground. They are found growing in lawns and meadows all over the United States.

Corn-cockle (Agrostemma githago)

Despite what its name might imply, the last thing this plant resembles is corn. This magnificent plant grows nearly 3 feet tall and sprouts just one beautiful purple flower at its top, making it a popular decorative plant on farms.

Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.)

The name “pussytoes” comes from the fuzzy white to pink flower heads that look like tiny kitten’s paws. This is a group of perennial species that are mostly native to the Northern Hemisphere. They often grow in groups, with their basal leaves hugging the ground and upright stalks reaching a foot high. Pussytoes grow in a variety of well-drained soils, and are a great addition to rock gardens.

Adder’s tongue spearwort (Ranunculus ophioglossifolius)

funny flower names with adder's tongue spearwort

When submerged in water, this aquatic-loving plant’s leaves float to the surface and resemble a water lily. Though now a beloved water plant, adder’s tongue is relatively young, especially when compared to flowers like roses and daisies. It was first described by Dominique Villars in “Histoire des Plantes de Dauphiné,” which was published in 1789.

Sneezeweed (Helenium sp.)

This red, yellow, and orange daisy-like flower is a fall-blooming perennial native to North and Central America. Sneezeweed’s crazy flower name comes from its early use as a snuff that would cause sneezing to expel evil spirits. It grows well in damp woodlands and moist areas, and many horticultural varieties have been bred because of its colorful flower and easy growth.

Humped bladderwort (Utricularia gibba)

funny flower names with humped bladderwort

This aquatic carnivorous plant can be found almost anywhere water is present, from the United States and Canada to Africa and Asia. Grown primarily in lakes and canals, this flower is about as gruesome as its name implies. To get its nutrients, a humped bladderwort captures small prey in its bladder and digests it over time.

Turtlehead (Chelone lyonii, Chelone glabra)

Turtlehead is a perennial wildflower native to Canada as well as the northeast and central U.S. Its unique name refers to the pink or white, hooded, two-lipped flowers that resemble a turtle’s beak. It grows in wet, boggy areas and along streams, and can be cultivated if there is enough moisture. Turtlehead blooms in the late summer to fall, and has sometimes been used as an unusual cut flower in arrangements.

Mad dog skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora)

funny flower names with mad dog skullcap

This wetland-loving species usually grows near marshes, meadows, lakes, and canals. Recently, scientists have been studying its extracts, with a hope of one day using it as a mild sleep sedative.

Cuckoo flower (Cardmine pratensis)

This pale pink or white wildflower is a native of Europe and western Asia, and has naturalized in the United States. The cuckoo flower’s funny name comes from its bloom time that coincides with the first call of the cuckoo bird in spring. It is an herbaceous perennial that grows in wet woods, damp meadows, and along stream beds.

False hellebore (Veratrum viride)

Known by a variety of names, including Indian poke, Indian hellebore, and green false hellebore, this plant is extremely toxic. Just a few false hellebore plants have the power to kill an entire garden or farm, as well as livestock if ingested.

Viper’s bugloss (Echium vulgare)

This showy, blue-flowered plant was once used as a cure for snake or viper bites, and “bugloss” refers to the Greek word for “ox tongue,” from the shape of its leaves. Viper’s bugloss is native to Europe and Western Asia and has naturalized in the United States. It was originally used as a garden flower but has since escaped and become an invasive weed in parts of the U.S. Regardless of whether you view viper’s bugloss as a weed or garden plant, it remains a very pretty flower with a crazy name.

Scurfpea (Pediomelum tenuiflorum)

Most often found emerging from desert grasslands and canyons, these pea-like flowers change color depending on their age. When they first bloom, they’re a bluish-purple color. As they get older, they become red or tan.

Corn-salad, mâche (Valerianella locusta)

Corn-salad, or mâche, is a native of Western Europe, Northern Africa, and Western Asia, and has naturalized in North America. True to its unique name, it is used as a salad green, and is often found as a weed growing in cornfields. Corn-salad is an early spring annual that grows wild but can be cultivated for its smooth, green leaves. Several horticultural varieties have been bred for larger leaves and sweeter taste.

Spiny-leaved sow-thistle (Sonchus asper)

funny flower names with spiny-leaved sow-thistle

Native to Eurasia, the spiny-leaved sow-thistle enjoys living in highly trafficked areas, such as parks and pastures. Even though it’s considered a weed of many crops, it rarely has the chance to invade a farm because livestock find it to be quite tasty. Closely related to wild lettuce, it is possible to eat the young weed as well — though we’d suggest against it!

Monkey flower (Mimulus ringens)

Monkey flower is a native of North America. Its funny name refers to the lilac-colored flowers that were thought to look like smiling monkey faces. It grows in very wet places, such as stream banks, marshy areas, and wet meadows. Monkey flower is a pretty, 3-foot-tall, herbaceous perennial that blooms from midsummer to fall.

Cow vetch (Vicia cracca)

At nearly 4 feet tall, this fast-growing perennial may be a weed, but its lovely purple flowers may make you think twice about grabbing the weed killer. At a single time, as many as 40 small, purple flowers can bloom on one side of its long, green stem.