Flower Care Archives

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Peonies

Peonies are favorite flowers among gardeners. These blooms add beauty to any landscape and have one of the longest lifespans of any flower. They’re also one of the most popular kinds of cut flowers.

For all their positives, though, peonies have one big drawback: They are very seasonal and available for only a few weeks each spring. That limited availability, however, only adds to their allure.

With their exquisite beauty and relative rarity, you might think peonies would be very particular about how they are planted, grown, and cared for — but they aren’t. In fact, caring for peonies is not that different from doing so for most other flowers.

Types of peonies

Peonies come in three varieties. They are:

Herbaceous peonies
Tree peonies
Intersectional peonies

Herbaceous peonies are the most common. These usually bloom in early or mid-summer and die in the winter. The second type, tree peonies, tend to bloom in spring and lose their leaves in the fall. Intersectional peonies are essentially a cross between the two; they die back each winter like herbaceous peonies and sprout large flowers like tree peonies.

The type of peony you plant will determine when your flowers will be in season.

Peony Neon one of the most popular "Japanese"! Inflorescences

How to plant and grow peonies

Since peonies can grow rather tall (sometimes as high as 5 feet!), make sure the spot you choose to plant them is spacious enough. And remember, peonies can come back year after year, so think long term.

Here are three tips to keep in mind before planting peonies.

The planting site you choose should be exposed to sun for at least half the day. The more sun your peony receives, the more flowers it will produce.
When making a spot for your peonies, make sure you dig your hole deep enough and wide enough to accommodate their full growth.
Always make sure your peonies’ eyes — the buds growing from the crown of the plant — are facing up before placing them in the soil. Once they’re buried, cover them with soil and make sure to provide enough water.

Bonus tip: Since peonies can grow to be pretty tall, they may need more support than some other flowers in your garden. So, make sure you have stakes handy as your flowers start to grow to help hold them up, if need be.

When to plant peonies

The best time to plant peonies depends on where you live. These flowers typically grow best in cooler climates and require a cold winter season, to encourage flower growth. In general, plant peonies in the spring as soon as the ground starts to thaw, or in the fall, before the ground freezes over. Just keep in mind that if you plant in the spring, you may have to wait a year or two before you see them really start to bloom.

Peony care

To ensure your peonies thrive after planting, as well as for many years to come, follow the following three tips.

Add a relatively thin layer of compost over your peonies each spring, along with a layer of mulch (approximately 2 inches deep). Doing so can help control the amount of weeds that sprout in your garden and will help retain the moisture surrounding your peonies.
During the first winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch to your garden right after the ground freezes to protect the roots of your peonies.
During dry periods, water your peonies weekly. You’ll know that you’ve over-watered if you start to see water pooling around the base of your peonies.

Cut peony care tips

When buying fresh-cut peonies, look for ones that have not yet begun to bloom. Peonies are cut when the flower is still in a ball shape, so you want them just starting to crack open. This will give you the experience of seeing the bloom opening and, with the proper care, enjoying a few additional days of the peonies’ unique charm.

To get the most out of your cut peonies, follow these four important care tips.

Fill your vase about half to three-quarters full with warm water and floral food according to the packet directions.

Bonus tip: When you buy flowers, ask for a few extra packets of flower food so you always have some on hand at home.

Remove all the leaves that would be below the water line in the vase. Leaves that are submerged will rot, thus creating bacteria that can shorten the peonies’ vase life.

Bonus tip: Make sure the vase is extremely clean, and add a splash of bleach to the water — especially if you don’t have any flower food — before arranging the flowers in it to help keep bacteria at bay.

Using a sharp knife or cutting shears, give each peony a fresh cut, on an angle, before placing it in the vase. How much you cut from the bottom of the stem will depend on the size of your vase.

Bonus tip: Most varieties of peonies have large blooms with multiple petals and can become top heavy. Cutting the stems to make sure the flowers are not too tall in the vase will allow the sides of the vase to help support the stems as the peonies start to open.

Change the water and flower food every three to four days and re-cut the stems at least 1 inch each time.

Bonus tip: Peonies are big drinkers, so check the water level daily to see if you need to add more water. And always check before re-cutting the stems too.

A Comprehensive Guide to Caring for Gerbera Daisies

Are you looking to add a burst of color and beauty to your garden or home? Then consider bringing Gerbera daisies into your life. With its vibrant petals and cheerful appearance, this popular flower is a favorite among gardeners and florists alike.

However, to keep your Gerbera daisies thriving and blooming, proper care is essential. Let’s delve into all aspects of Gerbera daisy care — from planting and watering to pest control and propagation – so that you can enjoy the beauty of these cheerful flowers all year round.

Origin and significance of Gerbera daisies

Originating from the sunny climes of South Africa, Gerbera daisies were named as an homage to Traugott Gerber, a German naturalist and confidante of the revered Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus.

In terms of symbolism, Gerbera daisies, with their vivid hues and symmetrical petals, communicate cheerfulness, purity, and innocence. In Roman mythology, the Gerbera daisy is connected to the goddess of dawn, Aurora, and, thus, symbolizes the hope and promise of a new day.

Ideal growing conditions for Gerbera daisies

Macro closeup of flower pot with pink gerbera daisies potted pla

Gerbera daisies need ample sunlight, preferably a full six hours worth. They do, however, appreciate a bit of shade in the afternoon, when the sun’s rays can be harsh and potentially damage their foliage.

Gerbera daisies have a slight preference for well-drained soil that leans toward the acidic side, with an optimal pH range between 5.5 and 6.5.

These flowers thrive in warmth, making them a great choice for those living in warmer climates. (In the United States, for instance, they do best in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 11.) If you’re growing them indoors, try to keep the temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, a range that mimics the conditions of their native habitat.

How to plant Gerbera daisies

Plant Gerbera daisies 12 to 18 inches apart from one another, giving them enough room to spread their leaves and stretch their roots. When planting, make sure the crown of the daisy is visible above the soil surface. This will ensure that the base of the plant stays dry and free from rot, and your daisies remain perky and vibrant.

If you are container gardening, it’s imperative to use pots with good drainage to prevent the plants from getting waterlogged. Too much water can drown the roots, causing plant distress.

Watering and fertilizing tips

Watering your Gerbera daisies is all about balance and timing. You want to drench the soil thoroughly during watering, but then let it dry out before the next watering session. This prevents over-hydration, a common mistake that can lead to root and crown rot.

Regarding fertilizing, at the time of planting, use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer to give your daisies a healthy start. After that, continue this ritual every six weeks during the growing season to provide your gerbera daisies with the necessary nutrients they need to thrive.

Best gerbera daisy gift ideas

gerbera daisy care Disney Mickey Mouse Vase With Assorted Gerbera Daisies — Disney Mickey Mouse Vase with Assorted Gerbera Daisies

gerbera daisy care Hearts in Bloom Gerbera Daisy — Hearts in Bloom Gerbera Daisy

gerbera daisy care Vibrant Blooms Bouquet — Vibrant Blooms Bouquet

Pruning and deadheading

Pruning your Gerbera daisies is essential. Gently remove lower leaves and old flower stalks with pruning shears to make way for a new flush of growth and blooms, and to keep your plants looking fresh and lively. This also helps manage the size of your plant, preventing it from taking over other plants in your garden.

Deadhead any spent flowers, wilted petals, or browning leaves to ensure continuous blooming and minimize the risk of pests and diseases. To do this, simply follow the stem of the browning leaf or petal down to the base of the plant and make your cut there.

Common Gerbera daisy pests and diseases

Critters that might find your daisies appetizing include aphids, thrips, and spider mites. An effective tool against these pests is insecticidal soap. Alternatively, consider introducing natural predators, such as ladybugs, into your garden. You can buy ladybugs at most garden stores.

gerbera daisy care vase of daisies on desk

Gerbera daisies can also face challenges like powdery mildew and leaf spots, which can mar the beauty of your plants and hinder their growth. You can ward off these diseases by sticking to the watering routine laid out above. This will prevent an overly moist environment that diseases love. Similarly, ensuring proper air circulation around your plants can deter these diseases.

Enjoying Gerbera daisies in your home

Gerbera daisies are not just a delight to grow but also make splendid additions to any indoor space. Having them in your home adds an infectious cheerfulness, making them the perfect decor for any room. Their vivid colors can be a conversation starter or simply an accent piece that breathes life into a space.

These flowers also make a great gift. Handing a bunch of these vibrant blooms to a dear friend, beloved family member, or significant other is like sharing the warmth of a sunny day with them.

So, go ahead and cut a few stems — just make sure to do it in the early morning or late evening, when the flowers are well-hydrated and at their freshest. Put them in a vase, change the water every few days, and, just like that, you’ve added instant cheer to your home.

How to Plant Ranunculus

Ranunculus are not only delightful to receive as cut flowers in a bouquet but also make an enchanting addition outdoors in your garden or as container plants. Once you know your USDA hardiness zone for the time of planting and a little know-how, you’ll soon be able to enjoy these beautiful flowers year after year.

Where ranunculus grow

Ranunculus are herbaceous perennials that thrive in mild winters, long, cool springs, and balmy summers. They don’t do well in hot, humid conditions or tolerate prolonged freezing temperatures. Ranunculus are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and can be grown as perennials where temperatures typically don’t plunge below 25 degrees. In colder zones, however, they are grown as annuals.

When to plant ranunculus

In warm areas, zones 8 to 10, it’s best to plant ranunculus in the fall, when there is no danger of prolonged freezing temperatures. Ranunculus planted in the fall will bloom continuously for six to seven weeks in the springtime. In the colder zones, 4 to 7, plant them in the winter or early spring; they are not entirely hardy in freezing temperatures and will not survive the winter. Spring-planted ranunculus will bloom for four to six weeks in the late spring and summer.

how to plant ranunculus with Hands planting ranunculus flower on light background

Where to plant ranunculus

Locating your ranunculus in the right spot is essential to their growth. In most cases, they will need full sun for six to eight hours a day. However, in areas where temperatures soar and the sun is harsh, it’s best to grow them in a place that gets bright shade rather than direct sun during the hottest part of the day.

They will also need light, well-draining soil to prevent root rot. If your soil is heavy, dense, and doesn’t drain well, amend it with some compost or peat moss to give it better drainage and maintain a slightly acidic pH at about 6.0 to 6.5. Stay away from planting in low areas with soggy soil and pooling water.

Air circulation around the plants is essential, too, since they are susceptible to powdery mildew that thrives in close, humid conditions. Choose an open spot that gets a breeze, and don’t crowd the plants together.

Ranunculus do very well in containers. Use a light organic potting mix amended with perlite or peat (to increase the drainage) and make sure the pot has one drainage hole at minimum to keep the roots from sitting in water.

How to plant ranunculus

You can grow ranunculus from seeds, tubers, or plants from a nursery. Most gardeners prefer to start them from tubers, but it is also possible from seed.

Starting from seed

Ranunculus are “half hardy,” meaning they can withstand short bouts of cold but not prolonged freezing temperatures. In warmer areas, plant the seeds in the garden and cover them with a thin blanket of soil after all danger of frost has passed. If cold weather is predicted, you can cover them with a protective cloth, especially at nighttime.

In either warm or cool zones, you can start seeds indoors during the winter in a light, well-draining, seed-starting mix 12 to 16 weeks before your zone’s last frost date in the spring. Spread a light covering of soil over the seeds, and keep them moist and at about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should sprout in 10 to 15 days, and after 60 days, when four or five true leaves appear, they should be ready to transplant into the garden or a container. Ranunculus will bloom four to six months after sowing the seeds.

Starting from tubers

When you buy tubers, make sure they are dry, firm, and whole, without breaks or splits. They come in different sizes or grades, and bigger tubers will grow more vigorous plants that produce more flowers.

Some gardeners like to soak the tubers in tepid water for one to three hours (no more!) before planting. They absorb the water and puff up, becoming more flexible and less likely to break. Soaking the tubers wakes them from dormancy and gives them a head-start on growing roots. At this point, it is optional to “pre-sprout” the tubers before planting them in the garden or a container. Plant them with the claws facing downward in a moist seed-starting mix in a shallow tray and cover them with a quarter-inch of soil. Keep the tray cool, and they should begin to develop small roots after one to two weeks. Then, they’re ready to plant.

how to plant ranunculus with Woman planting presoaked ranunculus corms into a seed tray. — *One way to grow ranunculus* is soaking the tubers in water and then “pre-sprouting” them in a seed tray before planting them in the ground.

You can easily fertilize the tubers by mixing some compost with the soil before planting them. This gives the plants a boost of nutrition, and also ensures good drainage. Fertilize container-grown plants once a month with a high phosphorus, water-soluble fertilizer, and dilute it to half-strength to protect the roots.

When planting, orient the ranunculus tubers with the claws pointing downward — three to four per square foot for small tubers and up to 8 inches apart for larger ones — and cover them with 1 to 2 inches of soil. For container planting, space them no closer than 6 inches apart so there will be enough air circulation between them. Water them well after planting, and keep the soil slightly moist. This is important since ranunculus will not tolerate overly wet soil and may develop root rot. You should see sprouts after 10 to 15 days and blooms 90 days after planting.

Caring for garden ranunculus

While your ranunculus is actively growing and blooming, deadhead the spent flowers to encourage more flowering. Keep the soil cool, moist, and weed-free with a layer of mulch.

The plants will bloom from spring into the summer, but when the flowers fade and the plants begin to yellow, stop watering and let them die down naturally. This will allow them to absorb more nutrients and become stronger for next year’s growth.

If you want to overwinter the tubers in the ground and live in zones 8 to 10, cut the plants down in the fall and spread a layer of mulch near the plants to protect them from the cold.

If you live in zones 7 or colder, dig the tubers up in the fall and allow them to dry out. Then, keep them cool and dry in the winter or early spring until planting time next year.

Exquisite ranunculus blooms aren’t only attractive to humans — bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies love the blossoms, making the flowers an excellent choice for a pollinator garden. But deer and rabbits will stay away since all parts of ranunculus are toxic to animals.

What’s Up, Buttercup: A Complete Guide to Ranunculus

Familiar yellow buttercups pop up in the spring and summer on lawns and along roadsides, streambanks, and meadows. Their scientific name is ranunculus, an ancient genus of about 600 species, thought to be over 5 million years old. The cousins of these humble wildflowers are the elegant, refined ranunculus we see today in gardens, arrangements, and wedding bouquets that look like blooms from a fairy tale.

They are hybrids of a species called Ranunculus asiaticus, or Persian buttercup, sometimes known as turban buttercup or rose of spring. The parent of these beauties is a little wildflower native to the eastern Mediterranean region, from the island of Cyprus through Turkey and east to Iran. It grows low to the ground, with five red or yellow petals and a black center.

Ranunculus flowers have been cultivated in Europe for millennia and were all the rage in Victorian times. Over the past hundred years, however, Italian, French, Israeli, and American breeders created hybrids of this species. They are prized for their wide array of colors, curly stems, and large, exquisite flowers that are reliable bloomers.

These lovely plants grow to be 1 to 2 feet in height, with one to several cupped blossoms on fuzzy stems atop a rosette of finely cut, dissected leaves. They have distinctive black anthers and come in a rainbow of bright and pastel colors: white, yellow, apricot, orange, pink, red, fuchsia, burgundy, and picotee (bicolor). Depending on the variety, the flowers are single, like poppies, or double, with paper-thin, overlapping petals that resemble peonies or roses. Some popular cultivars have an impressive 100 to 130 petals in each flower and can be 2 to 5 inches in diameter.

Popular varieties of ranunculus flowers

Here are six of the most beautiful varieties of ranunculus seen today.

Accolade – This compact variety grows 8 inches high, with creamy yellow double petals edged in light pink, similar to a peace rose.

Amandine – The ruffled petals of these double flowers, along with their higher heat tolerance, make this a standout variety. Amandine grows from 10 to 14 inches at maturity and comes in various colors.

Aviv – This impressive variety is excellent for cut flowers due to its tall, 12-to-14-inch stems and large double blooms that are 4 to 5 inches across. It comes in mixed colors, including picotee.

Cloni – The top-rated, Italian-bred Cloni series includes three groups of varieties: Cloni Success, Cloni Pon-pon, and Elegance. The flowers are larger than most other ranunculus varieties, and come in elegant blushing pink, cream, coral, red, and vivid orange. Cloni grows between 1 and 2 feet tall.

Telecote – The acclaimed Telecote series features peony-like double flowers with both pastel and bright colors. It is a prolific bloomer and excellent for cut flowers due to its 24-inch stems, with eight to 10 stems per plant.

Tomer – This little beauty is a dwarf ranunculus, growing only 10 inches high, making it perfect for pots and low borders. It is wind and rain tolerant, and comes in white, pink, red, yellow, orange, and purple.

Uses of ranunculus flowers

Ranunculus are beloved for their vibrant colors, whimsical stems, voluminous paper-thin petals, and sweet nature. Their big, bright blooms, with a vase life of eight days to two weeks, make them an excellent choice as cut flowers for arrangements, centerpieces, and wedding bouquets. The wide array of vibrant colors makes ranunculus arrangements versatile and appropriate for all occasions, including birthdays, engagements, weddings, anniversaries, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, or just because.

In the home, a ranunculus arrangement can grace a dining table or desk, or serve as an accent anywhere a splash of color is needed. In the garden, ranunculus are beautiful in mass plantings as a spring border or in a pollinator garden. In containers, they are a cheerful addition to a porch, a patio, or an entryway, or around a pool.

Caring for cut ranunculus flowers

Your 20-stem box of multicolored ranunculus will arrive with the flowers in the bud stage. These should fully bloom within 24 to 36 hours. They may be droopy at first but will perk up when you put them in water.

First, remove the flowers from the box. The stems should be firm, but they will bruise easily, so you’ll need patience and a gentle hand when holding them. Snip half an inch off the bottom of each stem at an angle with clean scissors or a knife.

Next, fill a clean vase with water and pour in the flower food from one of the included packets. Arrange the flowers in the vase by first putting in the filler plants, such as ferns, to give it a structure to build from, and then add the flowers one at a time.

Keep the arrangement in a cool place out of the sun and away from any drafts. Replace the water in the vase every two or three days to keep algae from growing, mixing in half of the second flower food packet. If the bottoms of the stems become soft and begin to decay, cut them off at an angle again to keep the flowers as fresh as possible.

Occasionally, a stem will bend or collapse under the weight of a bloom. If this happens, cut the stem off just above the bend and put it in a bud vase or small container that will support the flower.

By keeping the ends of the stems freshly cut and providing clean water every few days, you can extend the vase time of ranunculus to two weeks.

(Interested in planting ranunculus in the ground but don’t know where to start? Our helpful guide will teach you everything you need to know about growing ranunculus in a garden.)

Meaning and symbolism of ranunculus

In floriography, the ancient language spoken through flowers, ranunculus blossoms symbolize charm and attractiveness. When you find yourself drawn to someone because of their beauty and allure, and want to show them how you feel, your gift of ranunculus flowers will tell the story.

8 fun facts about ranunculus

ranunculus flowers with stages of blooming

The genus name Ranunculus means “little frog.” It comes from Rana, the Latin word for frog, and unculus, meaning “little.”
Crowfoot is another name for ranunculus because of its claw-shaped tubers.
Ranunculus flowers are lovely to look at, but they are not fragrant. In fact, most varieties have no scent at all!
1-800-Flowers.com gets its ranunculus flowers from Ecuador. The warm sunshine and cool nights of the Andes Mountains make this an ideal setting for the blossoms to thrive.
Fossilized ranunculus seeds dating back 5 million years, from the Pliocene Era, have been found in the mountains of Germany and China.
The shiny, yellow buttercup flower you held under your chin as a child doesn’t mean you like butter. The petals have special reflective cells that attract pollinators from far away.
A Persian legend tells of a young prince who fell desperately in love with a beautiful nymph. She spurned his declarations of love time and again, so he died of a broken heart and turned into a ranunculus flower.
As beautiful as these flowers are, all parts of them are toxic.

How to care for an Easter Lily Plant Indoors and Outdoors

Spring is the time when early-blooming bulbs begin to appear in garden centers and stores. The exquisite and highly fragrant Easter lily is royalty among them and carries a rich cultural and spiritual history.

This white lily often symbolized the purity of motherhood in pagan religions and was mentioned many times in the Bible, where it represented purity, rebirth, hope, and the resurrection of Christ. It has become a traditional Easter and springtime flower, seen in churches and homes to celebrate the season.

Easter lilies are native to the Ryukyu Islands of Japan. They were brought to the United States in 1880 and, at that time, were produced for sale in the southern U.S. and Japan. Their value increased during World War II when the supply of bulbs from Japan came to a halt and their production moved to the West Coast. Today, most of the world’s potted Easter lilies are produced in an area near the border of California and Oregon.

How to choose an Easter lily

Easter lilies are 2 to 3 inches tall with pure white to pinkish, trumpet-shaped flowers atop stiff stems adorned with dark green, lance-shaped leaves. When shopping for a lily, you will have many to choose from, often with colorful foil around their pots. Picking a good one takes a trained eye, so you’ll want to follow this guide to make the best selection.

Choose a plant that has:

A strong, dark green stem
Foliage that extends down the stalk
Lots of tight, green buds, and at least one open flower

Don’t choose a plant if it has:

Drooping or brown buds
Holes or spots on the leaves
Signs of insect pests: stippling on the leaves, webbing
Crinkled, folded, or distorted leaves
A soft, spongy, or yellowed stem

How to care for a potted Easter lily indoors

Now that you’ve picked out a beautiful Easter lily, you’ll want to help it thrive so it can enhance your home for as long as possible. That means making sure it gets the right light, temperature, humidity, and amount of water to keep it happy and healthy.

easter lily care with blooming easter lily

Light

Give your plant plenty of bright, indirect light, but do not keep it in the direct sun — that can scorch its flowers and foliage, and shorten its lifespan.

Temperature and humidity

Cool temperatures will extend the life of your plant. An Easter lily does best in 60-to-70-degree temperatures during the day and temps of 55 to 60 degrees at night. Also, keep it away from hot or cold drafts, which could damage the plant. Average household humidity — 30 to 50 percent — is perfect for Easter lilies, as they do not do well in humid conditions.

Water

Water your Easter lily about once a week to keep it evenly moist. Before you water it, remove the decorative foil to prevent it from trapping any excess water, and then let the water run through the pot and out the drainage holes. After the water thoroughly drains, put the foil back on the pot and only water it again when the top of the soil is dry. Continue watering the plant to keep the bulb alive after the flowers have gone by and the stem and leaves are still green.

Aftercare

Once the flowers are spent, remove them to keep the plant looking fresh. Allow the plant to die naturally and cut the dead stem down to soil level.

How to get an Easter lily to rebloom

Easter lilies bloom once a year, typically in June or July, for 2 to 3 weeks but will not rebloom as houseplants. They must be planted outside in the garden to rebloom.

Transferring your Easter lily outdoors

After your lily has died indoors, you can plant the bulb in the garden and enjoy its fragrant flowers for years to come. First, take the bulb out of the potting mix. Then, pick a planting location that gets either bright shade or direct morning sun and plenty of air circulation (again, you do not want to expose the plants to high humidity). When all danger of frost is passed, plant the bulb 4 to 6 inches down in rich, well-draining soil with the pointed end up. You can add some slow-release 5-10-5 fertilizer to the soil to boost the bulb’s growth. Water it thoroughly. As an added benefit, you can mulch to keep the soil cool. Easter lilies are hardy to USDA zones 4 through 8.

easter lily care with easter lilies blooming

How to care for an Easter lily planted outdoors

When your bulb begins to grow again the following spring, fertilize it every 2 to 3 weeks with a weak, high-phosphorus fertilizer to encourage blooming. Growing naturally in the garden, Easter lilies will bloom in the late spring to early summer. After the plant has died by midsummer, cut it down to soil level and mulch it to keep it cool in the summer and protect the bulb from freezing during the winter.

Easter lilies are susceptible to aphids, spider mites, and thrips. If you have an infestation, treat the plants with an insecticidal soap and/or neem oil. In overly wet conditions, they are also susceptible to botrytis, and root and stem rot, so make sure there is enough air circulation around the plant to prevent these fungal infections.

Toxicity

Easter lilies are highly toxic to cats.

Easter lily season is here!

Ready to start caring for your own Easter lily? Here are some options to get for yourself or a loved one this season.

easter lily care Easter Sentiments Lily Plant — Easter Sentiments Lily Plant

easter lily care Calming Peace Lily Plant — Calming Peace Lily Plant

10 Popular Spring Flowers to Bring Life to Your Home or Garden

Spring is that wonderful time of year when temperatures rise and buds swell and explode in a riot of colorful blooms. It is a time when we are filled with feelings of renewal and optimism and anticipation. And spring is also a time of planning and planting a garden. Bulbs, perennials, and flowering trees and shrubs will reward you year after year with their blooms.

Here are 10 popular spring flowers that you can grow in your garden, in containers, or, in some cases, indoors as houseplants.

1. Daffodils

Nothing says “spring” more than jaunty daffodils. These bulbs bloom up to six weeks in the early spring, and come in white, yellow, orange, bicolor, and pink. Most of the 32,000 cultivars have a short, protruding cup in the center of the flower, surrounded by six flat petals. They have strap-like leaves that grow from the bulb, and the plants stand between six and 30 inches high. Daffodils are beautiful in the garden, as cut flowers, and in containers indoors and out.

Daffodil growing tips

The best time to plant daffodils is in the fall. Locate them in the sun to partial shade in holes five inches deep. Plant the bulbs with the pointed end up, six inches away from one another. Cover them with soil, and water the plants in the spring. Give container-grown daffodils plenty of light, and water when the soil is dry an inch down from the top. They are hardy to USDA zones 4 to 8, and are deer resistant but toxic to humans and pets. Most of the hybridized varieties are not good pollinator plants, but native species will attract bees.

2. Tulips

These pretty spring bulbs have been hybridized extensively, with nearly 4,000 cultivars. The cup- or star-shaped flowers sit individually atop blue-green stems with two to six leaves, and their petals are every color except blue, in solid colors or stripes. Tulips can grow from anywhere from four to 30 inches tall and are categorized as early-blooming, mid-season, or late-blooming types. They can be grown in containers, in the garden, or as beautiful cut flowers.

Tulip growing tips

Plant tulips in the fall in a sunny spot in well-draining soil. Set them with the pointed end up four to eight inches down in the soil and four to six inches away from one another. Cover the bulbs with soil, and water them thoroughly. Container-grown tulips are planted in the fall, but they will need eight to 12 weeks of cold before they will flower in the spring. Tulips are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8, but in cold, northern areas, they need to be kept in a garage or basement until they can be set outside when the weather warms. Tulips are toxic to both humans and pets, and, like daffodils, species tulips (meaning ones that are un-hybridized)are better pollinator plants than the highly bred cultivars.

3. Hyacinth

Cheery pink, blue, or white hyacinths lend a spot of color to a spring garden and are often sold as potted indoor plants around Easter. Their highly fragrant, star-shaped flowers grow in clusters along a short stem, with upward-growing leaves.

Hyacinth growing tips

Plant the bulbs outside in the fall, four to six inches deep with their pointed ends up, three to six inches apart. Cover the bulbs with soil, and water thoroughly. Indoors, hyacinths delight with their sweet fragrance. After they bloom, you can plant them outside, and they should bloom the following spring. Hyacinths are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, deer resistant, and toxic to both humans and pets. They are good pollinator plants for bees and butterflies.

4. Crocus

The spring-blooming crocus is one of the earliest flowers to bloom. Delicate cup-shaped flowers with pointed petals come in pink, blue, purple, yellow, orange, and white, and grass-like leaves grow from the base of their six-inch stems.

Crocus growing tips

Plant crocus corms in the fall, setting them four inches deep in a sunny spot with well-draining soil and four inches apart from one another. Cover them with soil, and water them well. Crocuses are hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8 and are generally left alone by deer, but are toxic to pets. They are loved by bees and butterflies waking up from their winter nap.

5. Lily of the valley

Beautiful, shade-loving wildflowers, lily of the valley grow six to 12 inches high with small, white, fragrant flowers hanging down like bells in a line up a bare stalk. The flowers bloom for about three weeks in the spring and develop into small reddish berries. One or two broad leaves grow from the bottom of the stalk, and the plant spreads by underground rhizomes.

Lily of the valley growing tips

Locate lily of the valley in a shady spot with good drainage. Plant the rhizomes in the spring or fall with the growing tips pointing upwards about half an inch down in the soil, and water them while they’re getting established. Their rhizomes can be planted in containers in rich potting soil with excellent drainage and watered when the soil is dry an inch down from the top. Lily of the valley is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8, deer resistant, pollinated by bees, and highly toxic to people and pets.

6. Iris

These elegant flowers are named for Iris, the Greek goddess of the rainbow. About 300 species of iris exist, and thousands of cultivars that bloom from spring into summer exhibit every color of the spectrum. They range in height from six inches to four feet and grow from either rhizomes or bulbs. The stems are either single or branched with sword-shaped leaves and unique-looking flowers. Three petals curl upward — these are called standards — and three petal-like sepals bend down; these are known as falls.

Iris growing tips

Locate irises in a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Iris rhizomes should be planted on the surface of the soil with the roots extending down, and bulbs are planted four to six inches deep in the soil. Most iris are deer resistant and hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8. They attract bees and hummingbirds, and are toxic to humans and pets.

7. Forsythia

The most frequently seen variety of forsythia is the bright, cheerful hybrid Forsythia × intermedia, aka border forsythia, that is hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8. They are deciduous shrubs with four-petalled yellow flowers blooming in the early spring, before the leaves appear. The arching stems can grow up to 10 feet long and root wherever they touch the ground. Forsythia plants grown in a row can be pruned into a hedge or grown as graceful individual bushes. Cut flower stems are beautiful in arrangements as well.

Forsythia growing tips

Forsythia plants are easy to grow and are best planted in the fall. Choose a spot with full sun or partial shade that has well-draining soil. Dig a hole that is two times the size of the root ball, and center the plant, filling in the hole. Water it thoroughly until it’s established. Deer tend to leave it alone, and it is only a modest pollinator plant.

8. Azalea

Azaleas blaze with color in late spring throughout the Northern Hemisphere. There are about 800 species of these shade-loving bushes, with more than 10,000 registered varieties. Most are deciduous, but some are evergreen, and they range in height from two to eight feet. Their flowers cover the bushes with lavender, white, pink, salmon, or red blooms, and they are hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9.

Azalea growing tips

Plant your azalea in the spring or fall in dappled shade or a spot that gets only morning sun, in well-draining, acidic soil. Azaleas grow easily in containers and are an attractive addition to a porch or patio in bright shade. Choose a pot big enough for good root growth, use a well-draining potting mix formulated for acid-loving plants, and be sure to water it during dry spells. It is an excellent pollinator plant for butterflies and hummingbirds, but, unfortunately, deer find azaleas tasty, too. All parts of the plant are toxic to humans, and dogs, cats, and horses.

9. Lilac

Familiar, fragrant lilacs comprise 12 species of charming shrubs or small trees. The most frequently grown kind in the United States is the common lilac, along with its 400 cultivars. The four-petalled flowers are one-third of an inch across and grow in cone-shaped clusters, or panicles, at the ends of the branches. They range in color from purple to pink or white, bicolor, and even yellow. The blue-green leaves are heart shaped, and the tree is between four and 15 feet tall.

Lilac growing tips

Lilacs are best planted in the fall, in a spot with full sun and rich, well-draining soil. Most varieties are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7 and do not do well in the hot, humid areas of the country. They are susceptible to powdery mildew, so it is important to prune them after flowering to allow for good air circulation. Lilacs are fairly deer resistant, and are excellent pollinator flowers for bees in spring.

10. Magnolia

These ancient trees are often seen as a symbol of the Deep South. Magnolias are deciduous or evergreen, and they range in size from eight to 100 feet tall. Their large, fragrant, cup- or star-like flowers come in white, pink, purple, or yellow, and distinctive cones with red berries develop in the fall. Their flowers bloom in the spring before the leaves appear on deciduous species, and in the late spring to summer on evergreen trees.

Magnolia growing tips

Magnolias are wide spreading, often reaching 40 feet, so choose a spot with enough space. Plant evergreen varieties in the early spring in full sun, and deciduous varieties in the shade during the fall for southern locations and in the spring in the north. Magnolias are tolerant of various soil types as long as they are acidic and well draining. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9, and are a favorite food of deer. They are considered non-toxic to humans and pets.

Learning to Care for Your First Orchid

The orchid is a flower that exemplifies elegance. This tropical beauty worked Europeans into a hysteria known as Orchideliruim in the 1800s, during which it became fashionable to pay premium prices at auction for the blossoms.

Today, centuries of careful breeding practices have made this once-rare flower accessible to any indoor plant lover. Are you considering adding an orchid to your plant collection? This article will teach you about orchid care, as well as interesting facts about this flower, its origins, and the different types of orchids.

What is an orchid?

Having flourished since the time of the dinosaurs, orchids are considered one of the largest and oldest plant families on the planet. More than 30,000 unique species of orchids are found worldwide, and modern breeding practices have resulted in an additional 150,000 hybrids.

What sets orchids apart from most flowers is their growing strategy. Orchids don’t grow in the soil but rather are epiphytes (air plants) that root themselves to trees and rocks. There, they capture water and nutrients from the surrounding air with their exposed roots.

Today, wild orchids face environmental threats due to pollution, habitat destruction, and climate change, to the point that many varieties are at risk of extinction. For these reasons, you should avoid purchasing wild-harvested plants and only buy orchids from legitimate vendors. This lets you enjoy their beauty at home without compromising the ones that remain in the wild.

Orchid myths and color meanings

Orchids are associated with a lot of symbolism. This elegant flower has long been linked to ideas of love, thoughtfulness, and fertility. The color you choose is believed to carry certain significance, especially when given as a gift.

Blue: Peace, beauty, and tranquility
White: Innocence, reverence, and humility
Purple: Respect, admiration, and royalty
Pink: Femininity, charm, and grace
Yellow: Joy and friendship
Green: Health, nature, and financial good fortune
Orange: Pride, enthusiasm, and having fun

While this symbolism is fun to consider, the right orchid color for you will always be the one you love the most. Don’t limit your selection based on these color connotations! Instead, consider the care instructions and traits of different varieties.

Orchid varieties

Below are the three most common types of beginner-friendly orchids available.

Phalaenopsis

Considered a symbol of health and prosperity, this Southeast Asian native produces flowers in a range of colors and patterns, and tends to blossom in slightly cooler weather. It’s one of the most popular orchids due to its large flowers and ease of care, and it comes in purple, white, and blue varieties.

Dendrobium

This orchid variety hails from Asia, Australia, and the Pacific Islands, and is considered a symbol of wisdom and beauty. Wild dendrobiums usually bloom in the early spring to mid-summer and are available in various colors, including yellow, brown, pink, and purple.

It’s a robust grower and will send up new flower canes every year. But, unlike other varieties, you shouldn’t trim the spent flower stems of this orchid until there are three or more in a pot.

Oncidium

You can find this delicate orchid growing throughout North and South America, where it blooms from spring to fall. Oncidium is a diverse family that thrives in a vast range of habitats. Many varieties have names that sound as dynamic as their coloration, including tiger crow, wildcat, dancing lady, and ram’s head.

Pay close attention to the care instructions for your chosen variety, as they can vary significantly from one to the next.

How to care for an orchid plant

You can best enjoy orchids at home by staying mindful of their tropical origins. They do well when grown in pots of bark or moss that mimic the tree branches they call home in the wild, and most varieties need lots of filtered light. Placing them in east-facing windows is ideal, as it exposes them to early morning light that’s not too harsh. If you only have south- or west-facing windows, place a sheer or thin sheet over your orchids to protect them from the strong rays of the sun.

orchid care with woman caring for white orchid

Keep your flowers at temperatures between 65° and 90° F, being careful not to place your orchids in the path of a vent or draft. Provide them with a balanced fertilizer (20-20-20 ratio is recommended) every few weeks. Most need to be watered every five to seven days, though the roots should stay moist in between.

Alfred Palomares, VP, merchandising at 1-800-Flowers.com, offers a helpful trick to keeping orchids properly watered. “Add three ice cubes a week for a full-size orchid,” he says. “The key is to ensure the growing medium does not get dry and, at the same time, make sure the roots do not sit in water. This can lead to root rot.”

Under proper conditions, you can expect each bloom to last two months or longer before fading. Once the flower is finished, cut its stem back to about an inch above the planting line and continue watering as usual. The orchid is entering a temporary resting stage, during which it will start to stockpile energy before producing the next bloom. Care for it like normal, and the flower stalk should soon grow back.

Some orchid species, such as phalaenopsis, do best when replanted every few years. Others get stressed when their roots are moved, so make sure you understand the specific requirements for your variety before considering upgrading your pot.

How to care for cut orchids

If your orchids arrive in a box, take them out and cut one inch off the bottom of each stem on a slant with clean, sharp scissors or shears. This gives the stems more surface area to draw up water and ensures that the flowers will stay well hydrated. Orchids arriving in a vase will already be cut on an angle and shouldn’t need to be recut right away.

Fill a clean vase with water three-fourths of the way to the top, then add the packet of flower food to the water before arranging the flowers in the vase.

You can make your own food for several changes of water with this little recipe:

3/4 teaspoon household bleach
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon sugar

This recipe is for one quart of water. The bleach will keep the water clear and bacteria free, the lemon juice stabilize the acidity of the water, and the sugar will provide food for the flowers.

To keep your orchids fresh for as long as possible, follow these four simple steps:

Change the water every two to four days and add more flower food each time. If the water begins to get cloudy, change it immediately.
Recut each stem on an angle each time you change the water.
Discard any flowers that have faded and are past their prime.
Keep the orchids in a cool environment (65° F to 72° F) out of direct sunlight. At night, put them in the coolest room of the house out of the way of drafts from heating or cooling vents.

How to Care for Mums

As days grow shorter and temperatures drop, and many types of flowers begin to fade, chrysanthemums can bring a bright burst of warm color to a fall garden.

Around 40 species of chrysanthemums — commonly referred to as “mums” — exist in the wild. These herbaceous perennials or subshrubs, native to east Asia and northeastern Europe, are members of the daisy family and usually grow one to three feet tall. They have been cultivated and hybridized in China since the 15^th century B.C., and are culturally important all over Asia.

An animated ad for 1800flowers.com's fall collection

Chrysanthemums were introduced to the Western world in the 17^th century. Since then, thousands of varieties have been hybridized in Europe and the United States. The name chrysanthemum means “golden flower” in Greek and is also the scientific name of the plant. Followers of feng shui consider these plants a source of laughter and joy.

Here’s a guide to how to care for mums, including tips on buying the right kind and growing your own.

Buying guide

Chrysanthemums put on a show from late summer until frost. They offer a wide range of flower shapes, sizes, and colors for in-ground planting, containers, or hanging pots. When choosing which chrysanthemums to buy, keep the following points in mind.

how to care for mums with woman holding fall mums

Florist mums vs. hardy mums

Attractive florist chrysanthemums — those usually sold in florist shops or indoors at garden centers or grocery stores — are not hardy and are best used in containers or as annuals in the garden. These mums have limited root systems and will not survive the winter.

Hardy mums have root systems that spread out underground, enabling them to withstand cold temperatures in the garden, especially if they are planted in the spring and can become established before winter rolls around. Buying hardy mums in the fall does not guarantee that they will make it through the winter; these are better treated as annuals. They are normally sold outside in garden centers, grocery stores, or farm stands. Checking the tag will reveal if they are being sold as annuals.

Hardiness zone

Chrysanthemums grow best in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 9.

Color

Mums come in white, pink, red, purple, bronze, orange, or yellow. Choose a color that will complement its surroundings.

Buds

If you are buying a mature plant, look for one that is mostly in bud. Chrysanthemum flowers will normally bloom from four to eight weeks, and buying a plant in bud will give you the longest time to enjoy the flowers.

how to care for mums with orange mums on a pot

Good branching and new growth

A plant with the most branching and new growth will produce the most flowers and give a full, healthy appearance. Avoid plants with broken branches or spent flowers.

Well watered

Choose a plant with firm leaves and upright flowers. Droopy plants with yellowed bottom leaves — a sign they have not been watered properly — may not grow successfully.

Pest and disease free

Inspect the plant thoroughly on both sides of the leaves for signs of insects, such as aphids or spider mites, and for diseases that cause curling, moldy, or yellow or mottled leaves. If something doesn’t look right, don’t buy it!

Tips on how to care for mums

Light

Chrysanthemums grow best in a sunny spot that is sheltered from the wind. They can grow in partial shade but will tend to be spindly and won’t put out as many blooms as they would in full sun.

Soil

Mums are adaptable to many soil types as long as they are well draining. Organic soils or those amended with compost or peat, with a slightly acidic pH of 6.5, are best. Turn over the soil to a depth of 24 inches and mix with the organic material. Plant container-grown mums in a standard indoor potting mix.

Water

During dry weather, water hardy garden mums thoroughly down to the roots. Light watering keeps roots growing at a shallow depth, making them more susceptible to drying out and becoming damaged during the winter. Chrysanthemums grown in containers need to be watered more frequently than in-garden plants since their soil dries out quicker. Water them thoroughly when the soil is dry an inch down from the top, allowing the water to drain through the holes in the bottom of the pot. Both in-garden and container-grown plants should only be watered on the soil beneath the plants to avoid fungal diseases on the foliage.

Fertilizer

Chrysanthemums are heavy feeders, so mix some complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, into the soil at the time of planting in the spring and then again in midsummer. Fertilize fall-planted mums once at planting, and container-grown mums with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer twice a season.

how to care for mums with women planting mums in the ground

Pruning

If you buy young plants in the spring, pinching them back once or twice during the season encourages them to be bushy, with lots of flowers. Pinch each stem back to the first leaf when the plants are about 6 inches high in the spring. After the stems grow 5 to 8 inches long, pinch them back again in midsummer for continued lateral branching. Plants bought in the late summer or fall should be well branched and won’t need pruning, except for deadheading spent flowers.

Mulching

Apply a layer of mulch in late fall to protect in-garden plants during the winter months.

Pests and diseases

Watch for aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, leafhoppers, and plant bugs on the leaves. If the plants are crowded together without much air circulation in shady, humid conditions, they are prone to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, botrytis blight, leaf spot, and fusarium wilt.

Types of Roses: How to Identify and Care For Them

Roses are the royalty of the flower world, having been cultivated for over 5,000 years. These beautiful flowers have long been used as garden ornamentals and cut flowers, and made into perfumes, flavorings, condiments, medicines…even ice cream! They have had an honored place in art, literature, and movies, and are prized as much for their appearance as for the deep and heartfelt emotions they conjure up.

There are around 150 wild species of roses and a staggering 30,000 cultivated varieties. Organizing them all can get complicated, so this article will try and simplify how types of roses are categorized and highlight the distinct characteristics of each kind.

Types of roses by category

Roses can be sorted into three groups: species roses, old garden roses (before 1867), and modern roses (after 1867). They can also be grouped informally into categories by their growth habits (more on that later).

Species roses

These wildflower roses are the ancestors of old garden and modern roses. Most are native to Asia, but others come from Europe, North America, and northern Africa. They generally bloom once a year and have simple flowers with five flat petals and a strong fragrance. Many are grown as garden flowers, some are involved in the hybridization of new varieties, and still others are used as rootstocks because of their vigor and hardiness.

Types of species roses

Lady Banks’ rose (Rosa banksiae)

Originally from China, this rose has small, light-yellow flowers that grow in bunches at the ends of its long, arching branches and have a sweet, violet-like scent. It is an evergreen, thorn-less, shrubby vine that can grow 20 feet high and blooms earlier than most other rose species. It is often grown as an accent or border plant, or against a support, such as a fence.

Musk rose (Rosa moschata)

Native to the Himalayas, the musk rose is a medium-sized rambler that can grow to 10 feet tall. It has simple white flowers with yellow centers that grow in loose groups at the ends of the branches and bloom repeatedly from spring to fall. The musk rose does well as a hedge or border plant, or in a wildlife garden.

Prairie rose, Virginia rose (Rosa virginiana)

The prairie rose is native to eastern North America and is grown in coastal gardens — it is a salt-tolerant plant — as well as in cottage and pollinator gardens. It has pink petals with yellow centers, fiery red-orange leaves in the fall, and red rose hips. It has not been used much for hybridization, but it is grown for its fragrance, repeat blooming, fall colors, and fleshy fruit.

Sweetbriar, eglantine rose (Rosa rubiginosa)

This wild rose, originally from Europe and western Asia, grows along roadsides and is known as a screening or border shrub. It grows to about six feet high and has pink flowers that bloom in the late spring and early summer. Both its flowers and leaves are fragrant; the former have a spicy scent and the latter’s smell is reminiscent of apples. Attractive red rose hips develop after the flowers have faded.

Old garden roses

Old garden roses, or heritage roses, were developed from early European and Chinese cultivars before the arrival of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. They are typically disease resistant and very hardy, and their double flowers are highly fragrant. European cultivars bloom once a year on old canes, and Chinese hybrids of China and tea roses bloom continuously from spring to fall on new canes.

Types of old garden roses

Alba roses

One of the earliest old garden roses, these fragrant flowers are cream colored to pale pink and bloom once in late spring or early summer. They are vigorous climbers, disease resistant, hardy in northern climates, and tolerant of cold and shade.

Bourbon roses

These beautiful roses were developed on Bourbon Island (now called Réunion Island, a French island located in the Indian Ocean about 600 miles east of Madagascar). They are intensely fragrant, almost thorn-less, possess a dense flower head with up to 40 petals, and bloom repeatedly in hues of pink, white, or red. Bourbon roses are tender in northern climates but adaptable to sun or shade, and can be trained to climb.

Centifolia (cabbage roses)

These roses were developed in the Netherlands and named for their dense, cabbage-like flower heads. They were popular during the 17th century and frequently appeared in the Dutch Old Masters’ paintings. Nodding flowers in white, pink, lavender, or red bloom once in the early summer. They are hardy and can grow tall, but their floppy canes bend over and often need support.

China roses

These four- to 10-foot-high shrubs from China bloom from spring to fall and have single, and sometimes double, fragrant pink or red flowers. They have been used extensively in the development of tea roses and long-blooming varieties. China roses are a perfect addition to cottage gardens but are not hardy in colder climates.

Damask roses

Damask roses are named for the city of Damascus, Syria, and were important in the lineage of old European garden roses. Light pink to red fragrant flowers grow in groups on tall, thorny stems and bloom either early or late, depending on the variety. Damask rose hybrids were the start of the hardy, repeat-flowering roses that are so popular today.

Gallica roses

Gallica roses originated in Europe and western Asia, and are considered the first hybridized roses of the old garden category. Their highly fragrant double, or semi-double, flowers come in various shades of pink, red, or maroon, or can be striped. They bloom once in the summer on canes that grow to 4 feet high and are tolerant of cold and shade.

Hybrid musk roses

These roses grow in clusters on long, arching canes up to six feet. Their delicate light pink, white, yellow, or peach-colored flowers have a strong, musky scent. They are disease resistant, repeat flowering, and vigorous — perfect for growing against a wall or fence.

Hybrid perpetual roses

These hybrids of the repeat-flowering Asian roses and the old European hybrids were all the rage in Victorian England. They are tender, upright shrubs with clusters of large, fragrant, double flowers that bloom profusely in the spring and then sporadically until fall. Their popularity began to fade as hybrid teas gained favor in the gardening world.

Hybrid rugosa roses

Originally from Asia, hybrid rugosa roses have dark green, wrinkly foliage and highly fragrant, repeat-blooming, single or double flowers. They are hardy, disease resistant, and salt spray tolerant, and are excellent for a wildlife or pollinator garden.

Moss roses

These roses, known for the moss-like growth on the sepals that give off a woodsy scent when touched, originated from mutations in cabbage or damask roses. Those with a cabbage rose heritage flower once, and those hybridized from damask roses are repeat flowering. They are hardy and densely branched, with fragrant flowers in a variety of colors.

Noisette roses

A chance cross between a China rose and a naturalized musk rose led to the development of the blush noisette. Other varieties were developed and became highly popular in Europe and the United States. They have deliciously fragrant flower clusters on tall, bushy plants and are usually repeat bloomers, but are tender in northern climates.

Portland roses

These fragrant flowers were developed from one rose that was sent from Italy to the English Duchess of Portland in 1775. They grow to no more than 12 inches in height, with small, pink flowers that mainly bloom in the summer. Abundant in the early 19^th century, Portland roses soon saw their popularity diminish with the development of the bourbon and hybrid perpetual roses. Today, only a handful of varieties remain.

Tea roses

Hybrid tea-scented roses arrived in Europe from China in the early 19th century, when breeders crossed them with China roses, bourbons, and noisettes. The results were tall, elegant tea roses in white or pastel, with high central petals and wide lower petals that curl under. Tea roses are not hardy in cold climates but are disease resistant, with repeat-blooming, fragrant, gently nodding flowers. They are still grown today and are used for breeding modern hybrid teas.

Modern roses

The introduction of the hybrid tea rose “La France” in 1867 marked the starting point for modern roses. Since then, breeders have developed thousands of varieties that can be grouped by their growth and flowering habits. Unlike old garden roses, most modern roses are repeat bloomers from summer to fall. They are generally not fragrant and less hardy and disease resistant than old garden roses, but their blooms are larger, and they have a longer vase life.

Types of modern roses

English/David Austin roses

British rose breeder David Austin developed new varieties of roses in the 1960s with the rosette shapes and intoxicating fragrances of old garden roses, and the repeat-blooming traits and color spectrum of modern roses. These were highly successful, and new varieties are still being developed today.

Floribunda roses

Floribundas are small, bushy, easy-to-grow roses that present lavish flower clusters from spring to the first frost. Their flower color varies with the cultivar, and they are fairly hardy and disease resistant. Floribundas are excellent in mass plantings and are often seen in public and commercial spaces, in addition to home gardens.

Grandiflora roses

Hybrids of floribundas and hybrid teas, grandiflora roses were fashionable during the 20^th century. They are tall, vigorous, hardy shrubs that have large, showy flowers with rolled-under petals similar to hybrid teas. Like floribundas, they grow in clusters and are reliable repeat bloomers.

Hybrid tea roses

Hybrid teas were created from hybrid perpetuals and tea roses, and have qualities of both. They are important in the floral industry, as their long, upright stems and large, regal blooms make them perfect cut flowers. Hybrid teas were the most popular roses of the 20^th century because of their elegance, fragrance, and spring-to-fall flowering. They have a reputation for being difficult flowers to grow, though, due to their lack of hardiness and need for high maintenance.

Polyantha roses

These roses are perfect for the garden or containers. The small bushes, covered in bunches of tiny flowers in white, pink, or red, were developed by crossing two species of roses, Rosa chinensis and Rosa multiflora. Polyanthas bloom prolifically from summer to fall, and are disease resistant and easy to maintain.

Types of roses by growth habit

In addition to the categorizations above, roses can also be loosely grouped into five categories according to growth habit.

Miniature roses

These tiny plants are hybrid teas or grandifloras in miniature, ranging from six inches to 18 inches tall. They come in a number of colors and are profuse repeat bloomers from spring to fall, usually for two to three weeks at a time. Miniatures do well in containers indoors or outdoors and are excellent border plants in the garden.

Climbing roses

Climbers can grow up to 15 feet tall on stiff canes. They are repeat bloomers with large flowers in clusters of five, and they bloom more profusely if allowed to grow horizontally. Climbing roses can be encouraged to grow upright against a wall or fence, or tethered around a pillar or trellis while the canes are young and flexible. They are not hardy and will only survive the winter in warmer climates (USDA hardiness zones seven and above, generally speaking).

Groundcover roses

Also known as landscape roses, groundcover roses are typically one to three feet tall and wide, and are excellent for mass planting. They are hardy, low-growing, fragrant roses with disease and pest resistance, repeat flowering, and little to no maintenance. These roses do well in the garden, window boxes, or hanging pots.

Rambling roses

Ramblers have flexible canes and will grow over anything near them, such as a trellis, fence, or arch. They have clusters of seven medium-sized flowers and usually bloom once a season.

Shrub roses

Shrub roses are any type of rose that does not fit into any other category. They are often hybrids of modern roses that have been crossed with species or old garden roses and can be almost any shape, with blooms either singly or in clusters. They are generally repeat bloomers, very hardy, and easy to grow.