Flower & Plant Shop Corner Archives

The Art of Floral Design: 9 Expert Flower Arranging Tips

Your tulips are bursting forth from the ground, or maybe your fall rose bushes are in full bloom. Of course, you want to capitalize on this sudden emergence of natural beauty springing up around you and snip a few choice blossoms to keep around the house. Or perhaps you’ve received several bouquets and want to create a combined look for your entryway. But you want to do your precious petals more justice then just throwing them in a vase and calling it good. So, how can you keep your floral cluster vibrant for a week or longer and make it a bit more eye-catching?

You’re ready to take flower arranging to heart. Betsy Karetnick, founder of The Portable Garden, has taught thousands of people how to arrange flowers, first hosting radio shows on SiriusXM for Martha Stewart and later joining Alice’s Table, where she hosts virtual workshops. (All Alice’s Table events include a kit so you can participate).

Here are nine of Karetnick’s best tips on how to create your own distinctive arrangements that will look beautiful in your home — and last.

1. Think ahead

Before you gather your flowers, think about the spots in your house where you want to add color or interest. Do you have an empty mantel? The height and shape of your arrangement will depend on placement. Also, consider the vases you’ll use, as that will dictate how many flowers you need.

2. Choose your palette

In a home with neutral colors, your floral palette options are as varied as nature. On the other hand, if certain colors stand out in your home décor, your flowers can enhance them. With a deep green velvet sofa, for example, you might choose light, pastel flowers to create contrast on a coffee table.

Complementary colors often work well, too. Remember that it’s not boring to stick with one color — red roses would complement your green couch. You might try several kinds of red flowers and play with texture. “It’s sometimes easier to pick flowers if you’re working monochromatically,” Karetnick says.

Now, looser-style arrangements that create balance are very in vogue.

betsy karetnick

Founder, The Portable Garden and Alice’s Table host

3. Know your vase

A classic cylinder vase with a thin neck is simplest. “I always say, try to keep the diameter of the vase a little bit smaller. It’ll save you money, because you’ll use less flowers, and it will save you angst, which is even better,” Karetnick advises. Square vases require more skill on the flower arranger’s part.

4. Give your blooms a bath

Skipping preparation is a common mistake. Your flowers need a bath when they arrive in your home. Well-hydrated flowers last longer. “When you get flowers, they’ve already traveled from somewhere, even from your own backyard,” Karetnick notes. They’ve begun to dry out, and the stem has formed a scab where it was cut. “A dry stem can’t drink,” she explains.

You may have heard the advice to cut at least a couple of inches from the stems, at an angle. This step allows the flowers to absorb water. For cutting, Karetnick recommends an ARS bypass shear. “You’ll buy one for your lifetime,” she says. The precise, sharp cut promotes hydration.

Florists often submerge all their flowers in a bucket and cut them under the water. Dilute flower food into the water and let the stems drink for at least an hour, or even overnight. Tap water is fine, as long as it’s room temperature. When you’re ready for flower arranging, use a new packet of food and water for the first day. “Once they’re really hydrated, they’re very forgiving,” she notes.

Roses and hydrangeas can be especially tricky and may need as much as 3 to 5 inches cut. For most arrangements, the water should fill at least two-thirds of the vase. For flowers with straw-type stems, such as tulips, use less water or the stem may disintegrate quicker.

5. Keep them hydrated

Water evaporates, so add new water daily. After two or three days, “I will take the flowers out and hold it like a bride bouquet. Swish off the container to clean it with fresh water, and add new room temperature water. I don’t add more food. And I will put the flowers back in and, if I have time, I’ll give them a quarter-inch snip at the bottom so they’re drinking with a fresh cut,” she says.

If you have tight blooms that haven’t yet opened fully — and some sunlight — you’re in luck. These blooms will flourish if you put them in last, higher up. In the next days, they should start to open.

6. Location, location, location

You knew where your vase would go — and now, with arrangement, you can make the most of that spot. On a side table or coffee table, aim for more width, roughly twice as wide as the vase. For a dinner table vase, put your elbow on the table and create a right angle. If your arrangement is below the top of your fingers, it will be below eye level and people can see each other across the table.

To add drama, put a tall vase in an entryway or a corner of a desk — but plan ahead when you are cutting the stems. In a 5-inch container, you need stems that are at least 7 inches long.

7. 360 degrees or front facing?

Keep in mind the angles from which your flowers will be seen. Turn the arrangement around as you work. If you are filling a spot against a wall or mantel, with a vase only visible from the front, use taller flowers in the back to create a cascading effect as the eye travels downward. In a front-facing arrangement, use fewer flowers. Good news: You might have enough for a second vase!

8. Aim for balance

A bouquet with one kind of flower can be lovely: No two flowers are alike. Put a bloom of similar size on both sides to create balance. But you can use as many as five or six varieties, creating balance by size and with color, using, for example, red flowers on each side.

Also balance by height. In a pavé arrangement, all the flower heads are close together at the same height, creating a “kind of carpet effect.” This is common in powder rooms or side tables because these arrangements are naturally lower. “It was very popular for a long time,” Karetnick notes. “Now, looser-style arrangements that create balance are very in vogue.” For a modern look, experiment by cutting stems to different lengths to create a sense of movement.

9. Try floral tape

This specially designed tape is an old florist trick — but be sure to get the waterproof kind. “Make a grid like a tic-tac-toe board but with smaller boxes,” Karetnick says. This will allow you to experiment, putting stems in and taking them out, and angling them so you can make a wider arrangement with fewer flowers. Secure the grid edges by wrapping the tape around the rim of the vase. Floral tape is “just terrific,” she says.

Whatever you decide, make sure you’re having fun. Your flowers are already perfect and beautiful; with arrangements, we’re only adding another touch. Enjoy.

How to care for an Easter Lily Plant Indoors and Outdoors

Spring is the time when early-blooming bulbs begin to appear in garden centers and stores. The exquisite and highly fragrant Easter lily is royalty among them and carries a rich cultural and spiritual history.

This white lily often symbolized the purity of motherhood in pagan religions and was mentioned many times in the Bible, where it represented purity, rebirth, hope, and the resurrection of Christ. It has become a traditional Easter and springtime flower, seen in churches and homes to celebrate the season.

Easter lilies are native to the Ryukyu Islands of Japan. They were brought to the United States in 1880 and, at that time, were produced for sale in the southern U.S. and Japan. Their value increased during World War II when the supply of bulbs from Japan came to a halt and their production moved to the West Coast. Today, most of the world’s potted Easter lilies are produced in an area near the border of California and Oregon.

How to choose an Easter lily

Easter lilies are 2 to 3 inches tall with pure white to pinkish, trumpet-shaped flowers atop stiff stems adorned with dark green, lance-shaped leaves. When shopping for a lily, you will have many to choose from, often with colorful foil around their pots. Picking a good one takes a trained eye, so you’ll want to follow this guide to make the best selection.

Choose a plant that has:

A strong, dark green stem
Foliage that extends down the stalk
Lots of tight, green buds, and at least one open flower

Don’t choose a plant if it has:

Drooping or brown buds
Holes or spots on the leaves
Signs of insect pests: stippling on the leaves, webbing
Crinkled, folded, or distorted leaves
A soft, spongy, or yellowed stem

How to care for a potted Easter lily indoors

Now that you’ve picked out a beautiful Easter lily, you’ll want to help it thrive so it can enhance your home for as long as possible. That means making sure it gets the right light, temperature, humidity, and amount of water to keep it happy and healthy.

easter lily care with blooming easter lily

Light

Give your plant plenty of bright, indirect light, but do not keep it in the direct sun — that can scorch its flowers and foliage, and shorten its lifespan.

Temperature and humidity

Cool temperatures will extend the life of your plant. An Easter lily does best in 60-to-70-degree temperatures during the day and temps of 55 to 60 degrees at night. Also, keep it away from hot or cold drafts, which could damage the plant. Average household humidity — 30 to 50 percent — is perfect for Easter lilies, as they do not do well in humid conditions.

Water

Water your Easter lily about once a week to keep it evenly moist. Before you water it, remove the decorative foil to prevent it from trapping any excess water, and then let the water run through the pot and out the drainage holes. After the water thoroughly drains, put the foil back on the pot and only water it again when the top of the soil is dry. Continue watering the plant to keep the bulb alive after the flowers have gone by and the stem and leaves are still green.

Aftercare

Once the flowers are spent, remove them to keep the plant looking fresh. Allow the plant to die naturally and cut the dead stem down to soil level.

How to get an Easter lily to rebloom

Easter lilies bloom once a year, typically in June or July, for 2 to 3 weeks but will not rebloom as houseplants. They must be planted outside in the garden to rebloom.

Transferring your Easter lily outdoors

After your lily has died indoors, you can plant the bulb in the garden and enjoy its fragrant flowers for years to come. First, take the bulb out of the potting mix. Then, pick a planting location that gets either bright shade or direct morning sun and plenty of air circulation (again, you do not want to expose the plants to high humidity). When all danger of frost is passed, plant the bulb 4 to 6 inches down in rich, well-draining soil with the pointed end up. You can add some slow-release 5-10-5 fertilizer to the soil to boost the bulb’s growth. Water it thoroughly. As an added benefit, you can mulch to keep the soil cool. Easter lilies are hardy to USDA zones 4 through 8.

easter lily care with easter lilies blooming

How to care for an Easter lily planted outdoors

When your bulb begins to grow again the following spring, fertilize it every 2 to 3 weeks with a weak, high-phosphorus fertilizer to encourage blooming. Growing naturally in the garden, Easter lilies will bloom in the late spring to early summer. After the plant has died by midsummer, cut it down to soil level and mulch it to keep it cool in the summer and protect the bulb from freezing during the winter.

Easter lilies are susceptible to aphids, spider mites, and thrips. If you have an infestation, treat the plants with an insecticidal soap and/or neem oil. In overly wet conditions, they are also susceptible to botrytis, and root and stem rot, so make sure there is enough air circulation around the plant to prevent these fungal infections.

Toxicity

Easter lilies are highly toxic to cats.

Easter lily season is here!

Ready to start caring for your own Easter lily? Here are some options to get for yourself or a loved one this season.

easter lily care Easter Sentiments Lily Plant — Easter Sentiments Lily Plant

easter lily care Calming Peace Lily Plant — Calming Peace Lily Plant

13 Easy Indoor Flowers and Plants for Winter

When the winter chill sets in and outside plants are dormant or faded, decorating with houseplants is a cheerful way to brighten your home. Keeping them healthy and happy in the reduced sunlight and low household humidity during the winter months, however, can be challenging. But don’t despair: Some plants will do well in spite of the dry, lower-light conditions in the house.

Why do some plants thrive in the house and others do not? It comes down to adaptability. Each plant is unique in its needs, and the most adaptable ones will grow in a wide range of conditions. If you can just supply the basics of light, warmth, good watering practices, and increased humidity, you should be able to grow beautiful plants over the winter months.

Here are 13 flowering and foliage plants that do well in most households even when the weather outdoors turns cold.

Flowering plants

1. Poinsettia

The handsome poinsettia is a perennial shrub native to Mexico and Central America, where it blooms in the winter along stream banks and moist hillsides. It was introduced to the United States floral industry in the early 1800s and has become a popular decorative and gift plant during the Christmas season. Poinsettia’s original colors are red bracts and dark green leaves, but it has been hybridized to have other colors as well, such as white, salmon, pink, and yellow.

Indoors, they do best in six to eight hours a day of bright, indirect light and in average household temperatures, from 65 to 75 degrees. Poinsettias also appreciate some humidity, and they should be watered when the surface of the soil becomes dry.

2. Cyclamen

Cyclamen’s pretty heart-shaped, patterned leaves and white, violet, pink, or red nodding flowers make them popular houseplants during the winter and gifts for Valentine’s Day. They bloom from November through March and are native to Europe and the eastern Mediterranean.

Like many houseplants, cyclamen do best in bright, indirect light and average household temperatures that are on the cool side, between 60 and 70 degrees. They don’t do well in drafts or low humidity, so it’s important to boost the humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier. Water when the soil is dry an inch down from the top, making sure to keep the leaves and crown of the plant dry. In the late spring and summer, when cyclamen go dormant, water sparingly, and move the plant to a darker location until it revives in the fall.

3. Christmas cactus

winter indoor plants with christmas cactus

Natives of the Brazilian rainforests, Christmas cacti have flattened, segmented leaves that grow in an arching shape, making them excellent hanging pot plants. The late fall and winter flowers are usually red but can be pink, white, purple, or shades of yellow. They are the quintessential winter holiday plant.

Christmas cacti are usually in bloom when they’re for sale; to rebloom, they need diffused light for 11 hours a day and 13 hours of total darkness starting in September. They will be fine in average household temperatures, but may suffer if exposed to hot or cold drafts, and may drop their buds and flowers. Since Christmas cacti are rainforest plants, they love humidity and would do well on a pebble tray with daily misting, or with a humidifier. Water them thoroughly, then allow the soil to dry before watering again.

4. Kalanchoe (Flaming Katy)

Kalanchoe, or flaming Katy, is a succulent native to Madagascar and tropical Africa. It is a cheerful indoor plant for the winter, with the shortening daylight hours triggering it to bloom in clusters of red, salmon, or pink against its scalloped leaves.

Kalanchoe is easygoing, and will grow and bloom well in very bright, indirect light and in average household temperatures and humidity. Since it is a succulent, water it only when the soil is dry.

5. Bromeliads

There are many types of bromeliads, native to tropical America, that make unique additions to a winter houseplant collection. Their exotic flowers come in all shapes and colors, including red, yellow, orange, and sometimes blue, and they have interesting foliage, too, with solid green, gray, striped, banded, or rainbow-colored leaves.

Bromeliads are easy to grow indoors. Give them bright to moderate indirect light, warm temperatures of 60 to 85 degrees, and 60% humidity, if possible. A pebble tray or humidifier would be helpful for these plants. Water them in their “cups,” which are formed from the overlapping leaves. Tiny air plants like bromeliads should be soaked upside-down for an hour in water once a week.

6. Orchids

The orchid, the 2023 Flower of the Year, is an elegant member of the flower kingdom and is native to every continent but Antarctica. The species most often available for sale in Europe and the U.S. are phalaenopsis and dendrobium, both of which come in a range of colors. Given their striking beauty, one might assume that orchids would be difficult plants to grow, but they are actually quite easy and can be excellent indoor plants for the winter.

For orchids to thrive and bloom, give them plenty of bright, indirect light and temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees. They do need a chunky potting mix that provides good air circulation around their roots and require water only once a week. It is well to boost your room’s humidity to between 40% and 70% with pebble trays or a humidifier.

7. Anthuriums

The anthurium‘s vivid red flower head shining against heart-shaped dark green leaves makes it a bright addition to a sunny winter room. Native to Central America, South America, and the Caribbean, anthurium has become a beloved holiday and Valentine’s Day plant.

As with so many other tropical houseplants, anthuriums love bright, indirect light, warm temperatures (65 to 85 degrees), and above-average household humidity that can be increased with a pebble tray. Water when the top of the soil is dry.

Foliage plants

8. Snake plant

The handsome snake plant, with its sword-like, patterned leaves, is a native of tropical West Africa. Its many varieties range from short to tall, with different combinations of stripes and mottling of white, cream, green, and yellow on the leaves. It is an excellent houseplant because it requires very little care and is tolerant of household conditions any time of year.

A snake plant will happily grow in almost any amount of light, in 70- to 90-degree temperatures, and needs only infrequent watering. Although it’s nearly indestructible, a snake plant does not like hot or cold drafts, or being over-watered.

9. Jade plant

The jade plant is a perfect indoor plant for the winter. A succulent shrub native to Africa, it can grow up to six feet tall. Jade’s oval, fleshy leaves and branching habit resembling a small tree make it an attractive addition to a room.

For this plant to develop a pleasing shape, it needs at least six hours of bright light out of the direct sun’s rays. Normal household temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees and 30% to 50% humidity are fine. Jade likes its soil to be consistently moist but never soggy. Be sure to supply an excellent-draining potting mix so that it will not retain excess water.

10. Succulents

Cute, curious succulents are all the rage, and for good reason. They are easy to grow, given the right conditions, and are usually quite small. They come in a variety of shapes and colors, and can be displayed in a delightful array of pots, terrariums, and planters. Succulents come from arid and semi-arid areas of the world, such as Africa, Mexico, and Central America, and they are resilient, drought-resistant plants.

They do need enough light, though. In their natural habitats, they live at the base of taller plants, so they get bright light but not direct sun. Position your succulents so that they get maximum light away from the sun’s scorching rays. They are tolerant of average household temperatures and humidity, and only need to be watered when their soil is dry, or about once a month. Make sure the water drains out of the pot so that the roots are not sitting in moisture, and use a potting mix that is light and well draining.

11. ZZ plant

The odd name of the ZZ plant comes from its scientific name, Zamioculcas zamiifolia. It is native to the dry grasslands and forests of East Africa, and has a distinctive, prehistoric look, with dark green, leathery, compound leaves growing up from its rhizomes (stems that grow underground).

Although it is tolerant of various amounts of light, the low-maintenance ZZ plant does best in bright but not direct light, the former of which could scorch its leaves. It will grow well in average household temperatures and humidity, and only needs water when the soil has completely dried out.

12. Pothos

Beautiful, trailing pothos is one of the easiest plants to grow in the house any season of the year. It comes in many variegated forms, with yellow, white, or light green patterns decorating its heart-shaped, pointed leaves. Native to the Solomon Islands of the South Pacific, pothos will naturally grow up to 40 feet long in the wild. With support, it will reach 20 to 30 feet in length indoors, although a hanging pot will usually keep it much shorter.

The beautiful variegation that is so prized in pothos will revert to all green if not given enough light. Medium to bright indirect light and average household temperatures are best. Water when the soil is dry. Although tolerant of low household humidity, pothos prefer a more humid environment, so rooms like the kitchen or bathroom are good places to put your plant.

13. Aglaonema

Also known as Chinese evergreens, aglaonemas come in a large number of delightful colors that have made them popular low-maintenance indoor plants. Their oval leaves shine with green, red, pink, silver, or white patterns that brighten up a room. Aglaonemas are native to warm forest floors of the Philippines and northeastern Sulawesi, an Indonesian island.

As with other variegated plants, the lighter the leaf, the more sun is required. Light-colored aglaonemas need bright, indirect light, but darker-leaved ones can grow happily in moderate light away from the window. They do like warmth, 70 degrees or above, and high humidity. Locate them in a room with higher humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom, or set them on a pebble tray or near a humidifier. Water thoroughly when the soil has dried out, making sure the water drains completely out of the pot.

How to Care for Mums

As days grow shorter and temperatures drop, and many types of flowers begin to fade, chrysanthemums can bring a bright burst of warm color to a fall garden.

Around 40 species of chrysanthemums — commonly referred to as “mums” — exist in the wild. These herbaceous perennials or subshrubs, native to east Asia and northeastern Europe, are members of the daisy family and usually grow one to three feet tall. They have been cultivated and hybridized in China since the 15^th century B.C., and are culturally important all over Asia.

An animated ad for 1800flowers.com's fall collection

Chrysanthemums were introduced to the Western world in the 17^th century. Since then, thousands of varieties have been hybridized in Europe and the United States. The name chrysanthemum means “golden flower” in Greek and is also the scientific name of the plant. Followers of feng shui consider these plants a source of laughter and joy.

Here’s a guide to how to care for mums, including tips on buying the right kind and growing your own.

Buying guide

Chrysanthemums put on a show from late summer until frost. They offer a wide range of flower shapes, sizes, and colors for in-ground planting, containers, or hanging pots. When choosing which chrysanthemums to buy, keep the following points in mind.

how to care for mums with woman holding fall mums

Florist mums vs. hardy mums

Attractive florist chrysanthemums — those usually sold in florist shops or indoors at garden centers or grocery stores — are not hardy and are best used in containers or as annuals in the garden. These mums have limited root systems and will not survive the winter.

Hardy mums have root systems that spread out underground, enabling them to withstand cold temperatures in the garden, especially if they are planted in the spring and can become established before winter rolls around. Buying hardy mums in the fall does not guarantee that they will make it through the winter; these are better treated as annuals. They are normally sold outside in garden centers, grocery stores, or farm stands. Checking the tag will reveal if they are being sold as annuals.

Hardiness zone

Chrysanthemums grow best in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 9.

Color

Mums come in white, pink, red, purple, bronze, orange, or yellow. Choose a color that will complement its surroundings.

Buds

If you are buying a mature plant, look for one that is mostly in bud. Chrysanthemum flowers will normally bloom from four to eight weeks, and buying a plant in bud will give you the longest time to enjoy the flowers.

how to care for mums with orange mums on a pot

Good branching and new growth

A plant with the most branching and new growth will produce the most flowers and give a full, healthy appearance. Avoid plants with broken branches or spent flowers.

Well watered

Choose a plant with firm leaves and upright flowers. Droopy plants with yellowed bottom leaves — a sign they have not been watered properly — may not grow successfully.

Pest and disease free

Inspect the plant thoroughly on both sides of the leaves for signs of insects, such as aphids or spider mites, and for diseases that cause curling, moldy, or yellow or mottled leaves. If something doesn’t look right, don’t buy it!

Tips on how to care for mums

Light

Chrysanthemums grow best in a sunny spot that is sheltered from the wind. They can grow in partial shade but will tend to be spindly and won’t put out as many blooms as they would in full sun.

Soil

Mums are adaptable to many soil types as long as they are well draining. Organic soils or those amended with compost or peat, with a slightly acidic pH of 6.5, are best. Turn over the soil to a depth of 24 inches and mix with the organic material. Plant container-grown mums in a standard indoor potting mix.

Water

During dry weather, water hardy garden mums thoroughly down to the roots. Light watering keeps roots growing at a shallow depth, making them more susceptible to drying out and becoming damaged during the winter. Chrysanthemums grown in containers need to be watered more frequently than in-garden plants since their soil dries out quicker. Water them thoroughly when the soil is dry an inch down from the top, allowing the water to drain through the holes in the bottom of the pot. Both in-garden and container-grown plants should only be watered on the soil beneath the plants to avoid fungal diseases on the foliage.

Fertilizer

Chrysanthemums are heavy feeders, so mix some complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, into the soil at the time of planting in the spring and then again in midsummer. Fertilize fall-planted mums once at planting, and container-grown mums with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer twice a season.

how to care for mums with women planting mums in the ground

Pruning

If you buy young plants in the spring, pinching them back once or twice during the season encourages them to be bushy, with lots of flowers. Pinch each stem back to the first leaf when the plants are about 6 inches high in the spring. After the stems grow 5 to 8 inches long, pinch them back again in midsummer for continued lateral branching. Plants bought in the late summer or fall should be well branched and won’t need pruning, except for deadheading spent flowers.

Mulching

Apply a layer of mulch in late fall to protect in-garden plants during the winter months.

Pests and diseases

Watch for aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, leafhoppers, and plant bugs on the leaves. If the plants are crowded together without much air circulation in shady, humid conditions, they are prone to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, botrytis blight, leaf spot, and fusarium wilt.

Types of Roses: How to Identify and Care For Them

Roses are the royalty of the flower world, having been cultivated for over 5,000 years. These beautiful flowers have long been used as garden ornamentals and cut flowers, and made into perfumes, flavorings, condiments, medicines…even ice cream! They have had an honored place in art, literature, and movies, and are prized as much for their appearance as for the deep and heartfelt emotions they conjure up.

There are around 150 wild species of roses and a staggering 30,000 cultivated varieties. Organizing them all can get complicated, so this article will try and simplify how types of roses are categorized and highlight the distinct characteristics of each kind.

Types of roses by category

Roses can be sorted into three groups: species roses, old garden roses (before 1867), and modern roses (after 1867). They can also be grouped informally into categories by their growth habits (more on that later).

Species roses

These wildflower roses are the ancestors of old garden and modern roses. Most are native to Asia, but others come from Europe, North America, and northern Africa. They generally bloom once a year and have simple flowers with five flat petals and a strong fragrance. Many are grown as garden flowers, some are involved in the hybridization of new varieties, and still others are used as rootstocks because of their vigor and hardiness.

Types of species roses

Lady Banks’ rose (Rosa banksiae)

Originally from China, this rose has small, light-yellow flowers that grow in bunches at the ends of its long, arching branches and have a sweet, violet-like scent. It is an evergreen, thorn-less, shrubby vine that can grow 20 feet high and blooms earlier than most other rose species. It is often grown as an accent or border plant, or against a support, such as a fence.

Musk rose (Rosa moschata)

Native to the Himalayas, the musk rose is a medium-sized rambler that can grow to 10 feet tall. It has simple white flowers with yellow centers that grow in loose groups at the ends of the branches and bloom repeatedly from spring to fall. The musk rose does well as a hedge or border plant, or in a wildlife garden.

Prairie rose, Virginia rose (Rosa virginiana)

The prairie rose is native to eastern North America and is grown in coastal gardens — it is a salt-tolerant plant — as well as in cottage and pollinator gardens. It has pink petals with yellow centers, fiery red-orange leaves in the fall, and red rose hips. It has not been used much for hybridization, but it is grown for its fragrance, repeat blooming, fall colors, and fleshy fruit.

Sweetbriar, eglantine rose (Rosa rubiginosa)

This wild rose, originally from Europe and western Asia, grows along roadsides and is known as a screening or border shrub. It grows to about six feet high and has pink flowers that bloom in the late spring and early summer. Both its flowers and leaves are fragrant; the former have a spicy scent and the latter’s smell is reminiscent of apples. Attractive red rose hips develop after the flowers have faded.

Old garden roses

Old garden roses, or heritage roses, were developed from early European and Chinese cultivars before the arrival of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. They are typically disease resistant and very hardy, and their double flowers are highly fragrant. European cultivars bloom once a year on old canes, and Chinese hybrids of China and tea roses bloom continuously from spring to fall on new canes.

Types of old garden roses

Alba roses

One of the earliest old garden roses, these fragrant flowers are cream colored to pale pink and bloom once in late spring or early summer. They are vigorous climbers, disease resistant, hardy in northern climates, and tolerant of cold and shade.

Bourbon roses

These beautiful roses were developed on Bourbon Island (now called Réunion Island, a French island located in the Indian Ocean about 600 miles east of Madagascar). They are intensely fragrant, almost thorn-less, possess a dense flower head with up to 40 petals, and bloom repeatedly in hues of pink, white, or red. Bourbon roses are tender in northern climates but adaptable to sun or shade, and can be trained to climb.

Centifolia (cabbage roses)

These roses were developed in the Netherlands and named for their dense, cabbage-like flower heads. They were popular during the 17th century and frequently appeared in the Dutch Old Masters’ paintings. Nodding flowers in white, pink, lavender, or red bloom once in the early summer. They are hardy and can grow tall, but their floppy canes bend over and often need support.

China roses

These four- to 10-foot-high shrubs from China bloom from spring to fall and have single, and sometimes double, fragrant pink or red flowers. They have been used extensively in the development of tea roses and long-blooming varieties. China roses are a perfect addition to cottage gardens but are not hardy in colder climates.

Damask roses

Damask roses are named for the city of Damascus, Syria, and were important in the lineage of old European garden roses. Light pink to red fragrant flowers grow in groups on tall, thorny stems and bloom either early or late, depending on the variety. Damask rose hybrids were the start of the hardy, repeat-flowering roses that are so popular today.

Gallica roses

Gallica roses originated in Europe and western Asia, and are considered the first hybridized roses of the old garden category. Their highly fragrant double, or semi-double, flowers come in various shades of pink, red, or maroon, or can be striped. They bloom once in the summer on canes that grow to 4 feet high and are tolerant of cold and shade.

Hybrid musk roses

These roses grow in clusters on long, arching canes up to six feet. Their delicate light pink, white, yellow, or peach-colored flowers have a strong, musky scent. They are disease resistant, repeat flowering, and vigorous — perfect for growing against a wall or fence.

Hybrid perpetual roses

These hybrids of the repeat-flowering Asian roses and the old European hybrids were all the rage in Victorian England. They are tender, upright shrubs with clusters of large, fragrant, double flowers that bloom profusely in the spring and then sporadically until fall. Their popularity began to fade as hybrid teas gained favor in the gardening world.

Hybrid rugosa roses

Originally from Asia, hybrid rugosa roses have dark green, wrinkly foliage and highly fragrant, repeat-blooming, single or double flowers. They are hardy, disease resistant, and salt spray tolerant, and are excellent for a wildlife or pollinator garden.

Moss roses

These roses, known for the moss-like growth on the sepals that give off a woodsy scent when touched, originated from mutations in cabbage or damask roses. Those with a cabbage rose heritage flower once, and those hybridized from damask roses are repeat flowering. They are hardy and densely branched, with fragrant flowers in a variety of colors.

Noisette roses

A chance cross between a China rose and a naturalized musk rose led to the development of the blush noisette. Other varieties were developed and became highly popular in Europe and the United States. They have deliciously fragrant flower clusters on tall, bushy plants and are usually repeat bloomers, but are tender in northern climates.

Portland roses

These fragrant flowers were developed from one rose that was sent from Italy to the English Duchess of Portland in 1775. They grow to no more than 12 inches in height, with small, pink flowers that mainly bloom in the summer. Abundant in the early 19^th century, Portland roses soon saw their popularity diminish with the development of the bourbon and hybrid perpetual roses. Today, only a handful of varieties remain.

Tea roses

Hybrid tea-scented roses arrived in Europe from China in the early 19th century, when breeders crossed them with China roses, bourbons, and noisettes. The results were tall, elegant tea roses in white or pastel, with high central petals and wide lower petals that curl under. Tea roses are not hardy in cold climates but are disease resistant, with repeat-blooming, fragrant, gently nodding flowers. They are still grown today and are used for breeding modern hybrid teas.

Modern roses

The introduction of the hybrid tea rose “La France” in 1867 marked the starting point for modern roses. Since then, breeders have developed thousands of varieties that can be grouped by their growth and flowering habits. Unlike old garden roses, most modern roses are repeat bloomers from summer to fall. They are generally not fragrant and less hardy and disease resistant than old garden roses, but their blooms are larger, and they have a longer vase life.

Types of modern roses

English/David Austin roses

British rose breeder David Austin developed new varieties of roses in the 1960s with the rosette shapes and intoxicating fragrances of old garden roses, and the repeat-blooming traits and color spectrum of modern roses. These were highly successful, and new varieties are still being developed today.

Floribunda roses

Floribundas are small, bushy, easy-to-grow roses that present lavish flower clusters from spring to the first frost. Their flower color varies with the cultivar, and they are fairly hardy and disease resistant. Floribundas are excellent in mass plantings and are often seen in public and commercial spaces, in addition to home gardens.

Grandiflora roses

Hybrids of floribundas and hybrid teas, grandiflora roses were fashionable during the 20^th century. They are tall, vigorous, hardy shrubs that have large, showy flowers with rolled-under petals similar to hybrid teas. Like floribundas, they grow in clusters and are reliable repeat bloomers.

Hybrid tea roses

Hybrid teas were created from hybrid perpetuals and tea roses, and have qualities of both. They are important in the floral industry, as their long, upright stems and large, regal blooms make them perfect cut flowers. Hybrid teas were the most popular roses of the 20^th century because of their elegance, fragrance, and spring-to-fall flowering. They have a reputation for being difficult flowers to grow, though, due to their lack of hardiness and need for high maintenance.

Polyantha roses

These roses are perfect for the garden or containers. The small bushes, covered in bunches of tiny flowers in white, pink, or red, were developed by crossing two species of roses, Rosa chinensis and Rosa multiflora. Polyanthas bloom prolifically from summer to fall, and are disease resistant and easy to maintain.

Types of roses by growth habit

In addition to the categorizations above, roses can also be loosely grouped into five categories according to growth habit.

Miniature roses

These tiny plants are hybrid teas or grandifloras in miniature, ranging from six inches to 18 inches tall. They come in a number of colors and are profuse repeat bloomers from spring to fall, usually for two to three weeks at a time. Miniatures do well in containers indoors or outdoors and are excellent border plants in the garden.

Climbing roses

Climbers can grow up to 15 feet tall on stiff canes. They are repeat bloomers with large flowers in clusters of five, and they bloom more profusely if allowed to grow horizontally. Climbing roses can be encouraged to grow upright against a wall or fence, or tethered around a pillar or trellis while the canes are young and flexible. They are not hardy and will only survive the winter in warmer climates (USDA hardiness zones seven and above, generally speaking).

Groundcover roses

Also known as landscape roses, groundcover roses are typically one to three feet tall and wide, and are excellent for mass planting. They are hardy, low-growing, fragrant roses with disease and pest resistance, repeat flowering, and little to no maintenance. These roses do well in the garden, window boxes, or hanging pots.

Rambling roses

Ramblers have flexible canes and will grow over anything near them, such as a trellis, fence, or arch. They have clusters of seven medium-sized flowers and usually bloom once a season.

Shrub roses

Shrub roses are any type of rose that does not fit into any other category. They are often hybrids of modern roses that have been crossed with species or old garden roses and can be almost any shape, with blooms either singly or in clusters. They are generally repeat bloomers, very hardy, and easy to grow.

Rose Care: 5 Steps to Keeping Roses Fresher Longer

a photo of rose care with woman receiving roses

You’ve been sent a gift box of long stem roses or a gorgeous arrangement in a vase from someone special. You’re delighted, and now you want to give your new flowers the best possible care so that you can enjoy them for weeks to come.

Here are five things you need to know about rose care.

1. Unpacking your roses

As soon as you receive your roses, take them out of the box and put them in a clean vase or container of tepid water until you’re ready to arrange them. If they arrive already arranged in a vase, carefully unwrap them and make sure the vase is at least three-fourths full. Then, add water if necessary.

You may see some bruised, brown, or damaged outer petals in boxed roses. Don’t be upset; these are called “guard petals,” and they are deliberately left on by growers to protect the inner petals while the roses are being packed and in transit. If you want to remove a guard petal, hold it at the base and gently pull it down toward the stem so you don’t damage the rest of the flower.

2. Adding the flower food

If you received an arrangement of roses in a vase, add the packet of flower food and preservative to the water that is usually included with it. Long stem roses in a box should also come with a packet of flower food. Pick out an appropriate tall vase in which to arrange your roses and fill it three-fourths full with tepid water, and add the flower food.

a photo of rose care with making rose food

If you didn’t receive flower food, you can make your own. Mix three-fourths teaspoon of household bleach, two tablespoons of lemon juice, and one tablespoon of sugar in one quart of water.

The bleach will keep the water clear and bacteria free, the lemon juice will keep the acidity of the water stable, and the sugar will provide food for the flowers. Make enough of this recipe for several changes of water in your vase.

3. Cutting the stems

Preparing the stems is one of the most important things you can do for rose care, and is especially important for boxed roses. Cut one inch off the base of each stem at an angle with sharp, clean scissors or clippers while holding the bottom of the stem under water.

Stems sitting on the bottom of a vase with flat cuts keep the flowers from drawing up enough water. Cutting the stems at an angle gives the stems more surface area for water uptake and ensures the flowers will stay well hydrated. Flowers arriving in an arrangement should already have their stems cut at an angle, but boxed flowers won’t, and will need to be cut. If there are filler flowers, cut the stems of those, too, as well as the filler foliage, such as ferns.

Clip off any leaves that will sit below the water’s surface. Leaves in the water will decay and cause bacteria to grow, shortening the vase life of your roses. Snipping the leaves off next to the stems is preferable to pulling them off, as this won’t damage the stems as much.

a photo of rose care with woman arranging roses in a vase

4. Arranging roses in a vase

After you unpack your flowers from the box, prepare the vase with water, and cut all the stems, it’s time to arrange your flowers. All this takes is three easy steps.

First, separate the roses, filler flowers, and filler foliage.
Next, create a grid in the vase with the filler foliage and flowers, crossing the stems under the water. These stems will hold the roses in place in the arrangement.
Now, place the roses one by one in the grid you’ve created.

Voila! You have a beautiful arrangement.

If you’re more of a visual learner, watch this rose care video with floral expert Julie Mulligan about how to arrange flowers in a vase.

How to Arrange Roses Step-by-Step with Floral Expert Julie Mulligan

5. Extending the life of your roses

Whether you have a prepared arrangement or box of flowers that you arranged yourself, you want your flowers to last as long as possible. Here are five rose care tips to make your beautiful blooms live longer.

Recut the stems one at a time, taking 1 to 2 inches off each. Be sure to cut them at an angle with sharp scissors or clippers so you don’t crush the ends, and cut off any leaves that will sit below the water line in the vase.
As a general guideline, change the water every 2 to 4 days, but if it starts to get cloudy, change it ASAP. The best way to do this is to take the whole bouquet out and put it in another container while you’re refilling the vase.
Recut the stems and change the water regularly, and add fresh flower food every time you do the latter.
After a week or more, some of the flowers will be past their prime and can be discarded. The remaining flowers will have shorter stems and can be put in a small vase. When this is no longer possible, the flowers with very short stems (or none at all) can still be enjoyed in other containers, such as bowls, fancy glass baskets, or jars.
Cut flowers will last longer in a cool environment (65° F to 72° F) and out of direct sunlight. At night, put them in the coolest room of the house, out of the way of drafts from heating or cooling vents.

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How to Grow Bulbs in a Container Garden

Bulbs don’t seem to get enough credit. They’re easy to plant, easy to care for, and their colorful blooms can be enjoyed year after year. So why don’t more of us take advantage of them? If you’re looking to spruce up an entryway, patio, or sunroom, look no further than with a bulb container garden. And if you’ve never planted bulbs (or anything else for that matter), don’t worry — we’ve covered everything from buying to planting.

What is a bulb?

Nope, it’s not the thing you stick into a light socket. In botany, a bulb is a circular stem with fleshy leaves for a base. The bulb of a plant stores food and its organs during winter dormancy, which is what allows the flower to bloom every year.

container gardening with Gladiolus Bulbs

What is a container garden?

A container garden is just that: a small garden or collection of plants in a large container. But before you start picturing plants growing out of your Tupperware, we’re here to tell you container gardens are just as exquisite and colorful as traditional ones. And unlike regular gardens, container gardens are perfect for people who don’t have time to take care of a full landscape or are new to groundskeeping altogether. Best of all, they’re amazingly versatile and a great way to introduce some greenery into a small apartment or home without much yard space.

Selecting bulbs

The quality and longevity of your flowers depend on the types of bulbs you get. You want to find bulbs that are plump and firm. Soft, squishy bulbs or ones that have mold on them have started to decay and won’t produce beautiful flowers (or really anything for that matter). You also want to pick the largest of the bunch because those are the ones that will sprout the most flowers. We here at 1-800-Flowers.com know just how exciting it is to care for your flowers and watch them grow — that’s why many of our bulbs ship right to your door, rooted and sprouted!

Caring for your bulbs

You never want your bulbs to spend much time above ground, so the minute they arrive, plant them in soil. The best time to plant them is when the ground is cool and evening temperatures range between 40 and 50° F (aka, now)!

Where to plant bulbs

Whether you decide to stick with a traditional ceramic pot or get a little more creative and use an old toolbox or wooden barrel, the actual container isn’t as important as its location. Containers should be placed somewhere that receives direct sunlight for anywhere from six and eight hours a day.

4 tips for planting bulbs

These best practices will help you get the most out of your bulbs and ensure they keep coming back year after year.

1. Place them deep enough

Finding the right depth to plant your bulbs can be tricky. A good rule of thumb is to dig a hole about two or three times deeper than the height of the bulb. So, if the bulb is 3 inches tall, dig a hole about 6–9 inches deep.

2. Use the right soil

Because bulbs are planted deep in the ground, they tend to do best in well-drained soil (soil that lets water travel through it quickly and evenly).

3. Place them right-side up

If you get bulbs that have a tip or pointed end on one side, plant them so that that end is the one popping out of the ground. If your bulb is more circular, the end with roots growing is the side you place in the ground.

4. Water them well

Despite their different appearance, bulbs act just like seeds — which means they need plenty of water to lay down roots and grow. Ideally, you should water your bulbs every other day.

If you still want the benefit of having a garden without actually going through the process of planting it yourself, you’re in luck! We offer beautiful tulip, iris, and sweet springtime bulb container gardens.

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Expert Poinsettia Care Tips to Keep Your Plant Thriving After Christmas

Previously known as the “Christmas Star” and “Mexican flame leaf,” this striking bloom caught the attention of Joel Robert Poinsett, an American physician and diplomat on a trip as America’s first ambassador to Mexico. In Mexico, the plant is called “la flor de Nochebuena.” Poinsett introduced the plant to the United States, hence its common English name “poinsettia.”

Poinsettia care year-round

When caring for a poinsettia plant, the most important considerations are temperature, light, and watering. Poinsettias are light-loving plants. They prefer southeasterly, easterly, or western window exposure. Being tropical, they thrive in temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees. At night, you can moved them to a cooler location but not one where the temp is below 60 degrees. In northern climates, keep plants away from drafts and cold windows.

“Poinsettia care starts when you make the purchase,” says Renato Cruz Sogueco, vice president of digital strategy at BloomNet. “Ironically, for a plant beloved during the cool holiday season, poinsettias dislike chilly weather!”

Sogueco advises to avoid buying the poinsettia placed right at the doorway or sold outdoors. Instead, choose the plants inside the shop, insulated within other poinsettias, and look for small, tightly clustered yellow buds in the center. “Inspect the foliage to confirm none are bent or damaged, which may be a sign they were exposed to cold during delivery,” he says.

Check the soil of your plant daily, making sure it is lightly moist but never soggy or overdry. Both dryness and over-watering can cause leaves to droop or fall. A half-hour after watering, check to see that your plant is not sitting in water. If there is excessive water at the bottom, drain it off; this prevents root damage.

Poinsettia facts

The bright colorful leaves of a poinsettia are often mistaken for the flowers of the plant, but the actual flowers are the yellow or green that grows in the center of the colored leaf clusters.
The myth that poinsettias are toxic to pets is just that — a myth. If eaten, the plant may cause irritation to a pet’s mouth or digestive system, but there has never been a recorded report of pet fatality.
Despite being a classic Christmas plant, poinsettias can be updated when planted in an on-point container or made into a holiday wreath, and white poinsettias bring in a tasteful, simple design to a holiday vignette.

poinsettia care Silent Night White Poinsettia — Silent Night White Poinsettia

poinsettia care Disney Mickey Mouse Minnie Mouse Poinsettia — Disney Mickey Mouse & Minnie Mouse Poinsettia

Poinsettia care after Christmas

While poinsettias are the flower most commonly associated with Christmas, they have overall wintry appeal and are a colorful addition to your plant collection. Do keep in mind, though, that these tropical plants require a good deal of care.

Pro tip: Sogueco notes that if you noticed frost on your trip over to purchase your poinsettia, cover the plant when you load it into the car. Even short exposure to cold could harm the plant.

“With this type of love and attention, you’ll be enjoying the poinsettia’s vibrant-colored leaves for weeks beyond the holiday,” Sogueco says.

How to Transport Flowers Safely, No Wilting Necessary

Our series “Flower Care” offers expert tips and tricks to maintain your flower’s beauty. In this story, we review practical advice on how to transport your flowers safely by a car that’s as dependable as white-glove service delivery.

It’s a common flower lover’s dilemma: How do you transport flowers safely without compromising their beauty? Such moves can be perilous. Without the proper packaging, things can get pretty challenged and messy!

how to transport flowers with roses in car

If you’ve ever been the recipient of a gorgeous wedding floral arrangement, then you know exactly what we’re talking about. Imagine water all over your car’s floor mats. Or a crushed bouquet of flowers that you were trying to bring as a gift for a dinner party host.

Here’s the good news: You don’t need to be an expert to guarantee that your flowers will get from one destination to the next without a casualty. All you need is to follow a few simple tips.

For a bouquet

Do not store flowers in the trunk

Although you may think your trunk is secure, the lack of ventilation can damage your flowers’ ability to thrive, and they won’t look as healthy after a long trip. However, if you must use your trunk, it should only be done if outdoor temperatures are relatively mild — if it’s too hot or too cold, the flowers may wilt or freeze.

Avoid the dashboard

The dashboard is another place you shouldn’t place a bouquet during a drive. Although it is a flat surface, it is in direct line of the sun, which isn’t necessarily ideal for freshly cut flowers. You wouldn’t want your beautiful bouquet to wind up faded and sagging, would you? Also, it obstructs your view as you’re driving and can be very dangerous and hazardous.

Store in a water-filled bucket

The optimum method to transport anywhere from one bouquet, two bouquets, or too many to count is in a bucket filled with water. That way, they will be hydrated and can remain in an upright position. Keep in mind that you won’t want to fill the bucket with too much water, as this could lead to a spill if you hit a bump in the road; filling it just enough to wet your flowers’ whistle will do. But, even with minimal water, you can make sure that the bucket doesn’t get too jostled around by placing weights or sandbags on each side.

Pro tip: If you aren’t traveling too far, you can do away with the water altogether and just keep your bouquet(s) standing upright in the bucket — just be sure to arrange the flowers in a vase as soon as you arrive at your destination.

Transporting floral arrangements in a vase

Place on the floor

Although you may want to keep your floral arrangement next to you thinking that you can keep a better eye on it, placing a vase on a surface that isn’t necessarily flat could be an invitation for trouble. Therefore, you may want to choose the floor instead.

But let’s talk about what you should do with the water that’s in the vase when you receive your arrangement; to ensure that your flowers’ stems don’t need to be recut by the time your trip is over, keep approximately one-third of the vase filled before placing it on the ground. And even though this is quite a minimal amount of water, don’t forget to wrap an item like a blanket or sweatshirt around the vase’s base to keep it in place as you drive.

Pro tip: If you must keep your arrangement on a seat, whether front or back, be sure to use your seat belt for added protection.

Safeguard flowers in a box

If you anticipate that you’ll be bringing home a vase or two from an event, prepare yourself for the trip by packing a few cardboard boxes in the car. But, before you do, cut some openings in the top of the box in the shape of a star — this can help keep your arrangement sturdy as you drive. (Remember to place the box on the floor.)

Although this method is a surefire way to protect your arrangement regardless of the size, to be extra prepared, also pack newspaper that can be used to fill in each hole in case the cut-out seems to be a bit roomier than desired.

Secure blooms in your cup holder

Other than to store drinks, you may use your cup holders to collect change or temporarily hold your GPS while you drive. However, did you know that they can also safely transport floral arrangements from one place to the next?! That is, as long as the vase is small enough, of course. Should you choose this approach, we recommend using the cup holders in the back seat of your car so that they don’t become a distraction.

While a few of the above methods may require some extra preparation on your part, the end result will preserve your arrangements. By the time you get your flowers to their destination, they’ll still look freshly picked.